French Cycling Holidays - A Culinary Odyssey Part 2

Part two - Provence

It's no secret that Provence's delicious landscapes, ethereal light, rich history and vibrant culture have lured generations of artists to capture its unique essence. Cezanne, Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso... All the greats were enchanted by the magical qualities of this historic region of France.

But, I hear you cry, what did they eat whilst they were working on those wonderful masterpieces? Artists (and cyclists) require fuel. And not just any old baguette and cheese...

To truly feel part of the landscape, to become one with Provence, you have to eat and drink what its hallowed terroir has to offer. And even better if you can cycle through it, absorbing the landscapes in which wild herbs, olive trees and lavender mingle with the warm pine-scented breezes. 

Such is our love for this gastronomically gorgeous region, we have not one, but two guided cycle holidays: 

Whilst we visit the Mediterranean coast on another of our tours, these two cycling vacations are in-land, and take us around the thyme-scented pine forest hills where wild boar, deer and pheasant roam free. 

In the Luberon, we sample crystallised fruits in Apt and visit Sault, famed for game and wild mushrooms. We dine together in the evenings and chink glasses of Côtes de Ventoux with the legendary mountain watching over us. On our Roman Heritage tour, the wine of choice is Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, which we taste on Day 2, or Costières de Nîmes from Chateau Morgues du Grès, a prestigious winery we visit on Day 5. 

Provence's olives

No trip to Provence would be complete without an olive. Just cycling past the gnarled trunks and dusky leaves of these iconic trees dotting the Provençal landscape makes your mind start to wander towards aperitif-o'clock. Harvested in late summer to early autumn, the small, green Provençal picholine olives are soaked in brine to remove the bitterness, after which they can be marinated in herbes de Provence, garlic etc. to complement the naturally fresh and lemony taste. 

Most commonly nibbled alongside a glass or two of Pastis, olives are of course also made into oil. Since 2020, the French government has recognised the quality of Provençal olive oil with an Appellation d'origine protégée (AOP), with 250,000 litres produced per year via the 80 registered producers. During our Provence cycle tour you can keep an eye out for this AOP olive oil in the local shops, it makes a good souvenir! 

Tapenade, the dip/paste in which olives are crushed and mixed with anchovies, capers, vinegar and olive oil also features heavily in local shops (and at aperitif time!).

 Olives in a Provence market
Provençal markets: always a challenging destination for the indecisive olive fan...

Ratatouille

This veggie dish is a classic for a reason. Jam-packed with Provençal sunshine, ripe tomatoes, courgettes, aubergine and bell peppers are cooked slowly in olive oil and local herbs, in a testament to simplicity of preparation and quality of ingredients. With a crusty baguette on the side, you can see why health experts want us all to be eating a Mediterranean diet. 

A typical fish market in Provence, France

Bouillabaisse

Marseille's iconic fish soup probably originates from the Greek migrants who founded the city back in the 7th century BC. Since the 1980s it has been protected by the Bouillabaisse Charter, which dictates the ingredients and methods of the dish, to ensure its authenticity. That said, when you choose bouillabaisse from a Provençal restaurant menu, the actual fish may vary depending on availability. Scorpion fish, moray, red mullet and John Dory typically swim among the potatoes, onions, fennel and saffron,  and may be joined in this tasty rock pool by crab, mussels, or even lobster. What makes a bouillabaisse special is the addition of rouille, a tasty Provençal sauce of garlic, breadcrumbs, cayenne pepper, saffron, mustard and olive oil.

Pissaladière

A bread base, laden with salty anchovies and olives, this rustic picnic dish from Nice could be a little over the top if it weren't for those deliciously sweet fried onions. This tasty treat goes well with a pale pink, extra cold rosé de Provence. 

 

Calissons d'Aix

From Aix en Provence, this traditional Provençal sweet treat is made from ground almonds, candied melon and orange peel. Diamond shaped, they are covered in a thin layer of white icing and beautifully packed into pretty boxes. (They make a good Provençal souvenir!)

Has our culinary tour of Provence made you yearn for sun-ripened tomatoes and briny olives at aperitif o'clock? 

How fit do I need to be for a Provence cycle tour?

Anyone who is in good physical condition will be happy on the Roman Heritage cycling tour, which has mostly flat terrain with a few rolling hills. Cyclists should be comfortable with riding 3 to 5 hours a day on a bike. You can bring your own bike, or we can provide a touring bike or e-bike for you. On the Luberon tour, the Mont Ventoux is optional! If you are up for the challenge, you would need a good level of cycling fitness and enjoy riding for riding’s sake. 

How do I travel to the start of the cycling holiday?

Both Provence cycle vacations begin in Avignon and we can meet you at the train station or in the centre, or in other nearby locations (please contact us with your request). 

What kind of accommodation do we stay in?

We handpick 3 and 4 star hotels, often with swimming pools, and generally with plenty of wonderful French charme! See the individual tour pages for hotel details. 

More questions? Contact us in the office to find out more about this cycle tour, we're more than happy to chat through it with you.

A typical Provence lavender field