French Cycling Holidays News

Alice 'without pictures or.

Thu, 28 Aug 2014 00:00:00 +0000

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Entries open for La Marmotte

Thu, 03 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

The date for next year's Marmotte Cyclosportive has been announced as 2nd July. In a break from tradition, 2017's event will be run on a Sunday (Sportcommunication tell us that the local Gendarmerie have become concerned with traffic disruption on the race's usual Saturday start, so this change may well be permanent).

This year's route is the normal historic one, taking in the Cols du Glandon, du Télégraphe, du Galibier, descending the Col du Lauteret before tackling the famous 21 hairpins of L'Alpe D'Huez.

As usual, French Cycling Holidays has guaranteed entries to the event and luxury accommodation in L'Alpe D'Huez; and as usual we will have 2 private feed stations so you can avoid the crush at the official ones!

Welcome to the new website!

Mon, 21 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

We've finally launched the new site, we hope you like it! The new site should work a lot better on handheld devices like smartphones and tablets- hopefully retaining the functionality of the old site. We have also included a secure payment gateway for online bookings, so no printing out booking forms any more (unless you really want to!)

As the new website is in its infancy, we've doubtless overlooked a few things that could make it better- your feedback and suggestions would be genuinely appreciated!

The FCH Team.

Recipe of the month - Galette des Rois

Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

Galette des Rois

We posted this recipe a couple of years ago, but we make no apologies about repeating it - it is quick and easy to make (Neither Simon nor I would make it onto The Great British Bake-Off!) but more importantly it is indulgent and delicious! No Christmas Holiday in France would be complete without a Galette des Rois!

The Galette des Rois is a cake traditionally shared at Epiphany, on 6 January (Twelfth Night). It celebrates the arrival of the Three Wise Men in Bethlehem. The Galette is a puff pastry cake, with a small charm, the fève (literally 'the bean'), hidden inside (much as a lucky sixpence is hidden in a Christmas pudding in Britain). It is filled with frangipane, a cream made from sweet almonds, butter, eggs and sugar.

Epiphany corresponds to the moment when the baby Jesus is presented to the Three Wise Men, to give their gifts. Like many Christian festivals, the date of Epiphany corresponds to what was originally a pagan festival. In the past, the Romans celebrated Saturnalia, the festival of the winter solstice, at which a king or queen was chosen for one day, by means of a white or black bean hidden in a cake.

We have borrowed a recipe from Raymond Blanc, chef-proprietor of the Manoir au Quatre Saisons near Oxford, which is a fabulous destination if you want to pamper yourself with a weekend of Michelin-starred luxury!

Ingredients Required

400g Puff pastry, all butter, ready rolled, 2 sheets

For the almond cream

75g Butter, unsalted, at room temperature

75g Icing sugar

75g Almond powder

1 Egg

1 Egg yolk

1 tbsp Dark rum or cognac

Cooking Method

Cutting out the circles of pastry

You will get two sheets of pastry – 35 / 22.5 cm in a pack, so cut a 20cm circle for the base from one sheet and a 22cm circle for the top out of the other sheet; refrigerate for a minimum of 1hour. Any excess pastry can be kept for other use.

Making the almond cream

Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a large bowl, whisk all the ingredients together and mix to a smooth texture; reserve in the fridge.

Making the Galette

Spoon the almond cream into the centre of the puff pastry reserved for the base. With a palette knife spread the cream into an even circle leaving a 2cm gap from the edge. Brush the beaten egg yolk mixture around the 2cm gap and carefully drape the top circle of pastry neatly on top, press gently to expel all the air and using your thumb seal the pastry all around the edge. Chill or deep freeze the galette for 1 hour to firm up the pastry and with a sharp knife, trim the edge of the galette to an even circle so that it rises evenly.

With the back of a knife crimp the outside edge of the pastry all around . Here you can use your artistic flair.

Scoring the Galette & egg washing

Brush the Galette with beaten egg yolk. With the side of a fork or back of a knife, start from the centre of the Galette and score a spiral right up to the edge of the pastry. Repeat this to achieve an attractive design (if you feel unsure you could just simply criss cross the top of the galette).

Cooking the Galette

Cook in the preheated oven at 180°C for 45 minutes. Leave it to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Whoever gets the slice with the charm in it becomes King or Queen for the day - but mind your teeth!

Lascaux 4 - a new prehistoric experience!

Sun, 04 Dec 2016 00:00:00 +0000

A longstanding highlight of our Dordogne Tour is the Lascaux caves - a world heritage site famed for its stunning prehistoric cave paintings.

In the Dordogne village of Montignac, the story of the discovery of the perhaps the most haunting example of prehistoric art has entered local folklore.

On 8 September 1940, a local youth, Marcel Ravidat, was out with his dog, Robot, when it chased a rabbit into a hole in the ground. The 17-year-old rescued his pet, and returned a few days later with three friends to explore what appeared to be an underground cavern. Clambering down, they entered a grotto where the flickering light of their oil lamp lit upon a painting of a bull.

Ravidat had stumbled across what became known as Lascaux, a of subterranean caves decorated with drawings and paintings dating back 22,000 years to the palaeolithic era.

The depictions of horses, bulls, bison, goats, deer, cows, as well as lions, a bear, a rhinoceros and even a unicorn were so strikingly beautiful that Henri Breuil, the pre-eminent expert on prehistoric sites, declared the grotto was a “prehistoric Sistine chapel”.

The opening of Lascaux Cave after World War II changed the cave environment. The exhalations of 1,200 visitors per day, presence of light, and changes in air circulation have created a number of problems. Lichens and crystals began to appear on the walls in the late 1950s, leading to closure of the caves in 1963. Lascaux II, a replica of the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery located 200 meters away from the original, was opened in 1983, so that visitors may view the painted scenes without harming the originals. Now that site has also been adversely affected by the large numbers of visitors, a second, larger, recreation has been built representing the whole of the original site, recreating it in the smallest detail using original painting techniques. The visitor centre will also have interactive displays and a 3-D theatre, and promises to be a stunning experience.

The centre opens 15/12/2016. We will, of course, feature the new centre as part of our Dordogne tour! The video below gives an idea of how the new exhibition will look. It's in French, but you will get the idea!

Bourgogne Aligoté and the Kir Cocktail

Mon, 20 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000

The story of Kir and Aligoté – Burgundy’s forgotten grape.

When you think of white Burgundy, you think of Chardonnay. Indeed, some wine buffs would tell you that all white Burgundy is made with the Chardonnay grape – even the village of Chardonnay sits in the hills overlooking Macon and Tournus in the heart of the Côte Maconnais.

Aligoté and Chardonnay were both indigenous grape varieties of Burgundy. However Chardonnay was the easier grape to grow, and deemed more appealing to popular taste. In the same way that the Pinot Noir grape, (which had the support of the Dukes of Burgundy) replaced Gamay, to become the predominant red grape variety in the region, so the Aligoté vines were moved out onto low lying areas where the grape was never going to give of its best. When poor location is combined with 'traditional’ farming techniques, (no ploughing, artificial fertilisers, pesticides etc), the results can be poor indeed.

However, when the poor old Aligoté grape is given the respect it deserves, planted on decent sites and benefiting from modern winemaking methods, the results can be a revelation. Full of fruit and accompanying cheese and white meats beautifully, a super example can be had from Jean Fournier in Marsannay (very close to Dijon and the final hotel on our Burgundy Tour!).

However, back in the day when the Aligoté grape was very much the poor relation, the mayor of Dijon, Felix Kir, found a way of cutting the cost of civic receptions and at the same time promoting the local product! Taking the very acidic but economical Aligoté wine, and adding a measure of the local Crème de Cassis blackcurrant liqueur, the resulting aperitif was an instant hit. It became so popular it was named in his honour, and although different liqueurs have been used for different flavours, the true Kir is Bourgogne Aligoté and Crème de Cassis de Dijon!

As a footnote, just as Cassis is used to flavour an unremarkable wine and make it special, Kir Royale can be made with Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine – to use Champagne is bonkers!

Bosch and Bruegel in Provence

Mon, 27 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Carrière des Lumières

One of the highlights on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour is the Carrière des Lumières, literally the Quarry of Lights. Situated in the rocky landscape that inspired Danté to write his Inferno, this is a disused limestone quarry that has been converted, in spectacular and typically French fashion, into a breath-taking sound and light experience.

Using state of the art technologies, images are projected on the monumental sheer sided rock faces of the underground quarry, with musical accompaniment to fit the mood. Each year, a different theme is chosen, often celebrating a particular artist. Previous themes have been the works of Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin, Australia and its Aboriginal art, Cezanne…

For 2017 expect the weird and wonderful as the works of Hieronymus Bosch and Peter Bruegel the Elder are the subject of the exhibition. Works like Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights and Bruegel’s Peasant Wedding take on a whole new perspective when projected in crisp detail 12 metres high, and accompanied by music like Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana for the Bosch’s nightmare visions or Beethoven’s Pastoral for Bruegel’s portrayal of 15th Century peasant life, it’s a totally immersive experience.

A really unforgettable visit, we’re looking forward to our first one of 2017!

Update from Château La Tour de Chollet!

Mon, 02 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

One of the pleasures of cycling in France is riding through the country's vineyards, full of grapes ready to be made into wine - a staple of French culture and dining, of course. Last week we got an email from our friends at Château La Tour de Chollet, who you can visit on one of our Bordeaux cycling tours. They've had a good quality harvest this year, so it's the perfect time to book a cycling vacation for next year so you can pick up one of their signature wines!

Dear French Cycling Holidays

Just a quick update and some photos of the merlot and cabernet franc harvest. We picked yesterday, the 26th September, a few days earlier than normal, despite the first 2 weeks of September being unseasonably cold and and wet. The weather was cool and dry, perfect picking conditions. As expected the yields are down, at 50% less than last year - but most importantly the quality is good, with the early analysis showing excellent grape maturity, with good levels of sugar (potential 13.5% alcohol) and acidity.

As shown in the photo above we pick the red grapes with a harvest machine (our neighbour's). This allows for speedy picking, and the new high tech machine also removes any stems so the grapes are in great condition when they arrive in the chai (winery). Please scroll down to see the rest of the harvest explained in photos.

Just a quick reminder that as well as our current range of wines - the 2011 prestige (just 50 bottles left, so be quick if you want some more!), the 2014 classique, the 2015 blanc sec exceptionnel and the 2016 rose - we have released the last few cases of the wonderful 2010 classique - visit our online shop or drop us an email to order.

Enjoy the harvest!

1. Harvest started at 6am - we start before sunrise so that the grapes are safely in the tank whilst it's still cool, reducing the risk of oxidation and allowing easier temperature control in the wine making process.

2. The harvest machine straddles the vine and shakes it. Ripe grapes are like any other ripe fruit, if you shake the tree the fruit falls off. The machine then removes the stems, and the grapes are collected in panniers.

3. When the panniers are full, the grapes are tipped into a waiting trailer and taken back to the chai.

4. Our vineyards surround the property so the transportation only takes a couple of minutes.

5. The grapes are then pumped directly into the tank.

6. This is the view from the top of the tank. The object in the bottom right is a guard that stops the tap from being blocked by the grape skins.

7. The free run juice collects in a compartment at the bottom of the harvest trailer and is pumped into a different tank.

8. The juice is left to settle over night to be added back to the skins the following day, this allows us to remove any heavy matter.

9. This photo shows the merlot grapes in the trailer.

The next stage is the wine making. After a few days of cold soaking, the sugar to alcohol fermentation starts, followed by removal of the skins and then the malolactic fermentation.

10. This is what is left on the vine after the grapes are picked by machine.

After the harvest the job is finished for the vines for this season. Pruning begins in December and the vines will put out new shoots in March for the 2018 vintage.

French Cycling Holidays' tours for 2018 are now open for inquiries and booking; we have Bordeaux riding tours running from May through to the end of September, available now.

Loire Valley: The gardens of le Château de Chambord

Thu, 05 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Restoring the glory at Château de Chambord

Though it is one of the biggest and most beautiful châteaux in the Loire Valley, built in the 16th century for King Francis I, for a long time the historic gardens of the Château de Chambord were in a state of disrepair and in need of renovation.

After the gardens were flooded during heavy rains throughout France in 2016, that need only got more dire. But thanks to a generous donation from U.S. billionaire and lover of French culture, Stephen Schwarzman, the chateau and its gardens have been restored to their full glory, ready to be experienced by the public once again.

Interestingly, the site of this chateau was known to be rather damp, even in 1519 when the builders started laying the foundations. The King had specifically requested a castle that "rose from the waters". Up to 10% of the estate was wetland, with pools, ponds and the river Cosson traversing the domain.

The magnifique formal gardens of the Château de Chambord

From Molière to the Mona Lisa: Chambord's famous visitors

The 2016 flooding spared the chateau itself (much to the relief of the French tourist board, no doubt!).

This architectural wonder became part of the first list of France's historical monuments back in 1840 and has featured on UNESCO's World Heritage Site list since 1981.

Its estate and grounds - which we can cycle through! - include the Place Saint-Louis, the royal dwelling, 18th century kitchens, Ormetrou vineyards, permaculture vegetable gardens, the Maréchal de Saxe’s stables, and of course the formal gardens and Grand Promenade.

The castle was designed around a central axis: the famous double revolution staircase, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci: an ascending spiral that leads from the first floor to the third floor to a 'lighthouse' tower.

The King's bedroom, Château de Chambord (credit: Dorian Mongel)

France's famous playwright Molière presented his comedy, 'Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme' for the first time at Chambord on 14 October 1670, with none other than King Louis XIV in the audience. Molière was poking fun at the vain aristocracy in his hit play - was he forewarning his attendees about the French Revolution?! Because post-1789, the chateau's furnishings were stripped and sold off, and the building was abandoned...

Yet in 1821, the dilapidated property was signed over to the Duke of Bordeaux, grandson of King Charles X, who undertook a significant renovation and opened the castle to the public.

The French state took over the ownership in 1930 and just nine years later, the chateau received a shipment of artworks which had been evacuated from Paris. Iconic works such as Delacroix’s Liberty Guiding the People and The Lady with a Unicorn and even Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, were hidden safely in Chambord during WWII. How fitting that the Mona Lisa was probably carried up Chambord's famous da Vinci inspired staircase!

For more pictures of the gardens of Chambord, video of the restoration work, and the history of the château, you can visit Chambord's website here.

Cycle tour of the Château de Chambord

If the promise of Chambord's formal gardens, architectural delights and rich history have piqued your interest, you can visit the gardens and ride through the vast hunting park around it on one of our Loire Valley cycling tours, now open for bookings.

Highlights of our Loire Valley tour include:

Magnificent Château de Chambord and cycling tour in its forests
The beauty of the Château de Chenonceau spanning the River Cher
Idyllic riverside cycling along the Indre
Gourmet dining in elegant Amboise

The Loire Valley makes a fabulous destination for gentle bike tours, with its flat terrain and stunning scenery.

Collections are from Saint-Pierre-des-Corps TGV station and Tours Centre rail station
Departures are from Blois rail station (connections to Paris Austerlitz and Tours)

New Road Bike Tour 2018! Lake Annecy and the Alps!

Tue, 17 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Our new road bike tour for 2018 showcases the amazing Lake Annecy and surrounding mountain scenery and cols. Lake Annecy and the area may be a somewhat lesser known area by cycling enthusiasts outside of France, but ask any local and they will tell you this area and the quiet roads and tree covered climbs of the nearby UNESCO Parc de Bauges make this a cycling mecca!

Annecy is also on the doorsteps of the St Jean de Maurienne Valley (the largest uphill cycling area in the world!) and the Alps. We will take in the famous Col de Madeleine this week to earn ourselves the famous Myrtille tart — only available at the top! The cycling community in the area has grown as has the number of cycling cafes, and we ensure that our tour has a few stops at bASECAMP in Talloires (a cycling shop and cafe a few steps away from the shores of Lake Annecy and our chosen rental bike partner should you not wish to travel with your own bike).

Other famous climbs on the tour include the Col des Saisies and the Col d'Aravis, which have featured in the Tour de France and Étape du Tour many times over the last couple of decades.

Bookings are now live for our Lake Annecy tour for July 2018. There are limited spaces on the tour, so please contact us if you are interested — or schedule a private tour for six or more people!

Normandy: Land of Cream and Caramel

Tue, 21 Nov 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Famous for its butter, cream and cheese, the Normandy village of Isigny-sur-mer is the only village in France to have an appelation controllée for its dairy products. The dairy production of the region - which also lends its name to the ancestors of Walt Disney, via the surname "d'Isigny" - is overseen by the Isigny Sainte-Mère cooperative, which sells its products across the world, from Australia and the USA to South Africa and Brazil.

Thanks to its butter production, Normandy is also famous for its salted caramel! One such producer is the Vains-based Cara-Meuh! ("Cara-moo!" for us English speakers), which makes a wide selection of delicious caramel treats.

To find out more more about the Isigny-Sainte-Mère cooperative and its history, you can visit its website here, and Cara-Meuh!'s website here. And if either of those tempt your tastebuds, you can visit both Isigny and Cara-Meuh on our Normandy cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Normandy tours running from June to July.

Recipe of the month - Bûche de Noël

Fri, 01 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Bûche de Noël

With Christmas just around the corner, there's a whole lot to plan for, from presents to decorations to Christmas dinner - but we can help a little with the last of those, with a recipe for a very French Christmas dessert: a Bûche de Noël!

The Bûche de Noël ("Yule log" to our English-speaking audience!) was first created in the late 1800s by a French pastry chef to homage the European Christmas tradition of the Yule log, but the delicious dessert quickly took on a life of its own and has survived long after the log itself fell out of common use. With a craggy chocolate surface and a dusting of snow-like icing sugar, the Bûche de Noël is at home on anyone's Christmas dinner table.

We've borrowed this delicious chocolate log recipe from Paul Hollywood, of Great British Bake-Off fame; with its raspberry and cream filling, this wintertime treat puts a new spin on a classic favorite.

Ingredients Required

Vegetable oil, for greasing
150g golden caster sugar
6 large eggs, separated
250g good-quality dark chocolate
Icing sugar, for dusting

For the cream filling

400ml double cream, lightly whipped
150g raspberry, defrosted if frozen
A little Drambuie liqueur (optional)

For the chocolate buttercream

125g unsalted butter, softened
225g golden icing sugar
25g cocoa powder, sifted
1 tbsp milk

Cooking Method

Heat oven to 220C/200C fan /gas 7. Line a 23 x 33cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment and oil lightly. Whisk the caster sugar and yolks in a bowl until pale and thick. Melt the chocolate with 4 tbsp cold water in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir in the sugar mix.
Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir a spoonful into the chocolate, then fold in remaining using a large metal spoon. Pour batter into tin and bake for 12-14 mins until risen and just firm. Leave in tin until cold.
Lay a sheet of baking parchment on a board. With one bold movement, turn the cake onto the paper, then lift off the tin. Carefully peel away the lining paper.
Spread the whipped cream all over the cake, then scatter over the berries with a dribble of Drambuie, if you like. Starting at the long side opposite you, use the paper to roll the cake towards you. Transfer to a serving dish.
For the buttercream, beat the butter, then sift in sugar and cocoa. Add milk and mix together. Spread over cake, use a fork to create a log effect, and chill until needed. Decorate, dust with icing sugar and serve for everyone to enjoy!

_{Image and recipe taken from the BBC Good Food website.}

French Wines at Christmas, Part One - Reds

Tue, 05 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Many people get in a tizz about which wines to serve over the holiday season, and the huge choice on offer can seem mind-boggling, especially if you are buying by the case for parties and family get-togethers, and don’t want to get it wrong.

Fear not, if you want a wine that is hearty, warming, fruity, and alcoholic (!) you can safely narrow your choice down to the south of France. The Côtes du Rhône and the Languedoc specialise in wines that the French would describe as ‘costaud’ which loosely translates as ‘beefy’ or ‘powerful’ and can equally be used to described men – a Rugby player might well be described as ‘costaud’!

The signature grapes of the region are Grenache and Syrah (Shiraz) often with a touch of Mourvedre. Of course if French wines are prohibitively expensive where you are, wines made from these grapes will have similar qualities, but make sure that they come from hot areas, as it is the sun that results in the high sugar content and hence the high alcohol content!

A perfect accompaniment to roast beef or lamb, these reds are also great with strong cheeses and also make great quaffing party wine!

The doyenne of the southern Rhône reds is the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, which in addition to its Syrah Grenache foundation can include up to 11 additional varieties. When choosing Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, there can be considerable variation between wineries, so it is best to stick to one of the prestige brands, like Beaucastel or Vieux Télégraphe, or if your budget is slightly less rarified, Château Mont-Redon which we visit for a delightful tasting on our Provence Roman Heritage cycling tour.

If your budget is a little more modest, steer clear of the cheaper Châteauneuf and go for a Côte du Rhône Villages appellation. Cairanne, Gigondas, Lirac are all names to watch out for, being villages close to Châteauneuf but not commanding the price premium. Further west the Languedoc region has even more reasonably priced wines – Saint-Chinian, Faugères, Corbières are typical of the region, although as you travel further west into the Corbières you will find Carignan grapes coming into the mix which add a more tannic edge if that is your preference. Both our Languedoc and Mediterranean bike tours have plenty of vineyard visits and tasting opportunities if you want to do some in depth research!

If you are looking for wine for mulling, you will probably be better off with the cheapest local red you can find, as heating a wine with sugar, spice and fruit will mask the qualities (and lack thereof!) of any bottle! However if you are lucky enough to live in France or in the UK close enough to pop across the channel, you will find basic generic Côtes du Rhône at around 3.50€ a bottle – so mull away!

Cheers!

French Wines at Christmas, Part Two - Whites (and some reds!)

Wed, 06 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

In part one we discussed the best red wines for parties and to go with roasts and cheese. In part two we look at the tricky business of finding a wine to accompany the traditional Christmas dinner centrepiece – the turkey.

Turkey is quite delicate in flavour and in particular its low fat content means that there is little to soften the tannic edge of more robust reds, so stay away from reds with high tannin content like younger Bordeaux wines. If red is your preference, pinot noir from Burgundy, or Gamay from the Beaujolais, produce lighter, less overpowering wines that will complement the turkey. Top notch Burgundy reds such as can be found at the Château de Mersault (a fascinating visit and extensive tasting in its extensive underground cellars is included in our Burgundy Wine Explorer cycling tour) are extremely expensive, and less pricey options can be found from well reputed producers such as the Buxy Co-operative which we also visit.

Beaujolais villages such as Morgon and Fleurie produce delightful lighter reds which can be served a little cooler and have gorgeous strawberry and raspberry notes – these can be very affordable!

However, consensus amongst wine and food pairing experts is that white wine, in particular chardonnay, is the ideal partner for turkey. When considering white chardonnay, Bourgogne (Burgundy) and Chablis immediately spring to mind. The communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet are probably the pinnacle of the white winemaker’s art, and command suitably elevated prices. You can taste these on our Burgundy bike vacation! The co-operative at Buxy also has many deliciously affordable white oak aged Chardonnay wines, and after bringing home a few cases over the years we can whole-heartedly recommend their Montagny 1er Cru! Even more reasonable wines are available from the Bourgogne Côtes Maconnais region – as little as 6€ per bottle will get a very drinkable wine.

Finally – fizz! Whether it’s an aperitif before dinner or a New Year celebration, the pop of a champagne bottle puts everybody in the party mood. However, it doesn’t have to be champagne! There are plenty of delicious sparkling wines that can be enjoyed for a third or less than the equivalent champagnes. The Crémants from Alsace and Burgundy use the same methods and indeed the same grapes (pinot, chardonnay) as are used in Champagne. The sparkling Crémant d’Alsace from the Cave de Turkheim which we visit on our Alsace cycling tour is particularly recommended. The Loire Valley also a strong sparkling tradition – for parties stock up on the Crémant de Loire from the Monmousseau winery in Montrichard (our Loire tour takes in the fabulous underground tunnels).

For serious fizz drinking, the secret tip is a relatively unknown wine - Blanquette de Limoux from just south of the Medieval fortress of Carcassonne, the end point of our Mediterranean tour. Sparkling Blanquette predates Champagne by a couple of centuries, and as wine critic Victoria Moore says in the Telegraph “In Limoux they make really, really good sparkling wine. Not just good. It’s distinctive, with a fresh, edgy air of hedgerows and meadows and wild countryside.” And “When it comes to choosing between discount-store champagne and a crémant at a similar price, there’s no contest when it comes to quality – Crémant de Limoux every time.”

Mediterranean Coast: Carcassonne and the Cathar Crusades

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

The early 13th century was a dark time for the Mediterranean Coast. The Cathars - a Christian sect distinct from the Catholic church - were thriving in the south of France, but the Catholic Church did not recognise them as truly Christian, and when legate Pierre de Castelnau was murdered in 1208, Pope Innocent III declared the Albigensian Crusade to wipe out the Cathars. The Pope wrote to King Philip II to appeal for his intervention, and the King permitted his more ambitious barons, notably Simon de Montfort, to make war against the Cathars and their allies in the Languedoc.

Around 10,000 crusaders gathered for the beginning of the crusae during 1209, marching south from Lyon to the lands around Montpellier. It was in July that they reached Béziers, where they besieged the city, demanding that the Catholics in Béziers leave and the Cathars surrender; but when neither group did as ordered, the crusaders invaded the city, slaughtering the population and burning the city to the ground. When asked how the crusaders should distinguish the Cathars from the Catholics, papal legate Arnaud Amalric - the man in charge of the siege - is said to have replied "kill them all; God will know his own"; even the priests in the Béziers cathedral were put to the sword.

The crusaders' next target was the fortified city of Carcassone, where many Cathars had taken refuge from the invaders. The siege of the city did not last long; within a week the crusaders had cut off the water supply, and the defenders surrendered a week later. The people of Carcassonne were not massacred as Béziers had been; instead, they were expelled from the city, naked but for their "shifts and breeches". With the Viscount de Trencavel imprisoned in his own dungeon, Simon de Montfort was appointed the new viscount, and would go on to add to the city's fortifications after Trencavel died mysteriously three months later. The fall of Carcassonne also saw many other towns surrender without a fight.

Over the next year, the crusaders brought down the cities of Lastours and Minerve; however, their siege of Toulouse was short on men and supplies, and Raymond de Toulouse led a counter-attack against them. In 1213, the Cathars turned to King Peter II of Aragon (in northern Spain), for help; the king agreed to help thanks to his family connection to Raymond, but Pope Innocent denounced him and ordered the cursade renewed. Peter was struck down and killed in battle, and by 1215 Montfort was able to capture Toulouse for himself.

Despite having to deal with uprisings and Montfort's death, the crusaders hunted down the remaining Cathars over the next decade, with king Louis VIII heading the crusade; and though a few remained, the church's Inquisition prosecuted them for the remainder of the century, until Pope Clement V introduced new rules to restrict their power.

The repercussions of the crusade were many and long-lasting; scholars have argued that the crusade rendered the Catholic church weaker and more dependent on the French monarchy. But regardless, the crusade all but wiped out Catharism as a religious movement, and secured the power of the church in the south of France once more.

If you're intrigued by this slice of history, we visit both Béziers and Carcassonne on our Mediterranean Coast cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Mediterranean tours running from April to October.

Loire Valley: Château de Chenonceau and Diane de Poitiers

Wed, 10 Jan 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Visiting the Château de Chenonceau

The truly magnificent Château de Chenonceau is France's most visited private castle, and of course, is a highlight of our Loire Valley cycle tour. A château with a long and storied history, the Château de Chenonceau was first built between 1513 and 1521 by Thomas Bohier, who used it for hosting French nobility including King Francis I. However, by 1535 the Bohier family's debts to the Crown had become so great that King Francis seized the château for himself!

Following Francis' death, his son - King Henry II - decided to offer Chenonceau to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, as a gift, despite the fury of his wife Catherine de Medici!

Who was Diane de Poitiers?

A crafty and intellectual woman, Diane possessed a great amount of power within the French Court, even writing many of King Henry's official letters on his behalf.

Though the position of the "royal mistress" was expected and tolerated in an era when royal marriages were enacted solely for political and dynastic reasons, Henry's adoration for Diane was a source of bitter jealousy for his wife, Queen Catherine.

Knowing that the château was still legally owned by the Crown (and thus could be taken from her if the king ever died), through years of complex legal manoeuvres, including returning it to the by-now-impoverished Bohier family, Diane was able to take ownership of the castle for herself in 1555.

A painting of Diane on display

Diane de Poitiers makes some home improvements

With the knowledge that the castle was hers, and with the profits from the cultivation of the estate, Diane set about having Chenonceau updated and enhanced. She had a new bridge built, connecting the castle to the opposite bank; expanded and improved the main building; and oversaw the planting of large flower and vegetable gardens along the banks of the River Cher, which the castle spans.

The 19th century writer Gustave Flaubert wrote that Diane de Poitiers' bed, in the master bedroom, had an "extraordinary" effect on those who lay on it.

Unfortunately for Diane, her efforts to manoeuvre Chenonceaux into her own hands proved somewhat fruitless. When King Henry died in 1559, Diane - who, despite Henry's pleas, was not admitted to see him or even invited to the funeral - was pressured into giving the Château de Chenonceau to Catherine, in exchange for Catherine's Château de Chaumont. Taking up residence in Chenonceau, Catherine did her best to strip the vestiges of Diane's ownership from the castle; but rather than destroy the garden Diane had created, Catherine instead created her own, intending to outdo her rival.

We visit both châteaux on the tour, so you can see which of Diane's homes you'd prefer!

A cycle tour to Château de Chenonceau

Cycling to Château de Chenonceau is a popular part of our Loire Valley cycle tour, as this castle and the other châteaux we visit are part of a gentle itinerary with mostly flat rides. Following the course of the rivers Loire and Cher, the roads are practically car-free, with a substantial part of the riding on dedicated cycle paths.

Other sights we'll visit include Château d’Ussé which inspired Sleeping Beauty, Chateau de l'Amboise where Leonardo da Vinci is buried, Château de Chaumont, the gardens at Villandry, Chambord and Cheverney!

Don't worry if all this cycling and sight-seeing make you hungry, buffet breakfasts and gourmet meals are included...

A tribute to Peter Mayle

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 00:00:00 +0000

On Thursday, Peter Mayle - writer of the best-selling memoir A Year in Provence - died in hospital near his home in Vaugines, a village in the Luberon. An English writer who moved to France in the late 80s with intentions to write a book, his plans were quickly derailed by all the distractions and curiosities of life around his new home in Ménerbes... and when he wrote to his agent with a long letter explaining the delays, he was surprised to recieve the suggestion that he write a book about his experiences instead.

Even the book's publisher wasn't sure that it had what it would take to sell, however; indeed, the managing director thought at first that it would flop completely. But thanks to Mayle's charisma and skill at self-promotion, coupled with a serialisation deal with the Sunday Times, a slow start gave way to the book becoming a bestseller - Mayle even had fans track him down and arrive at his house! Despite a belief from some French people that it took a patronising view of French provincial life, the book is one of the best-selling travel books worldwide (yes, including in France!) and has inspired travellers the world over to visit Provence and experience it themselves.

A man whose writing has shaped the face of the travel genre for more than 25 years, he will be sorely missed by fans and family alike.

Picasso and the Spanish masters in Provence

Wed, 07 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

The Carrière des Lumières - the Quarry of Lights - is one of the highlights of our Provence Roman Heritage tour. Located at the heart of the Alpilles mountains, this former limestone quarry has become an incredible audio-visual experience to delight the senses, projecting animated images onto the enormous rock faces of the quarry, accompanied by specially-selected music.

For 2017, the theme was the works of Heironymus Bosch and Peter Bruegel, mixing snapshots of 15th century peasant life with bizarre visions of Hell. In 2018, however, things will be taking a more abstract route, intertwining the Cubist masterpieces of Pablo Picasso with the portraiture and coastal scenes of the Spanish masters - Francisco Goya, Santiago Rusiñol, Ignacio Zuloaga and Joaquín Sorolla, all topped off with the intense and emotional work of Picasso during World War II.

From 18th century Madrilenia to Guernica in 1937, the Carrière des Lumières presents two centuries of Spanish masterpieces of art. We can't wait to experience it - and if you can't either, why not try on of our Roman Heritage cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018? We have Provence tours running from June to September.

Languedoc and Provence: The Pont du Gard

Wed, 21 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

The Roman Empire changed the face of the world with its innovations in the realm of the military, civics and engineering. One of those innovations was the creation of aqueducts to carry water from springs and streams to Roman cities; and among the most impressive of those was the Pont du Gard, an aqueduct bridge carrying water to Nemausus - or Nîmes, as it's known today.

The three-tiered bridge is a marvel of Roman architecture and engineering. It descends in height by only one inch, with the entire aquaduct system - which runs for 31 miles in total, on a winding path from the springs at Uzès to Nîmes - descends only 41 feet; pretty impressive for a system that long, especially given the simplicity of the technology that the Romans were working with!

Though the bridge fell into disuse and neglect during the 4th century as the Languedoc was disrupted by invaders, it continued to stand intact; the lower levels of the bridge were used as a toll bridge for civilians to cross the valley. However, it continued to fall into disrepair, and was significantly damaged during the 1620s when it was used to transport Huguenot artillery. It wouldn't be until 1850, when Napoleon III visited the bridge, that repair work would begin; he agreed to fund architect Charles Laisné to renovate the aqueduct, replacing eroded stone and enhancing the bridge's stability. The repairs were highly successful; in the past century it has survived not one, but three serious floods that washed away other bridges!

As a work of artistic and engineering genius that stands as a testament to the ingeniuity of the Romans, it is no surprise that the Pont du Gard has inspired artists and writers since its creation. If you want to visit the aqueduct yourself, there's a great opportunity to do so on our Languedoc cycling tours; and not only that, but we take a canoe trip down the river Gard and under the bridge on our Provence Roman Heritage tours! Our tours are now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Roman Heritage tours running from June to September, and a Languedoc tour in October. And if you want to organise a private tour for six or more people, contact us to schedule it!

Burgundy: Blackcurrants and history

Thu, 19 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Burgundy is known for grapes - but don't forget its blackcurrants!

As anyone who has been on our Burgundy Wine Explorer Cycle Tour knows, if there's one thing that Burgundy is known for, it is its prized wines; its deep velvet Pinot Noir reds and those subtle, buttery and flinty Chardonnay whites.

But while Burgundy is most famous for its grapes, did you know it also has a proud history of blackcurrants, and the famed liqueur made from them - crème de cassis?

Blackcurrant bushes were planted on the edges of vineyards for homemade liqueur. Development in the growth and production of blackcurrant ('cassis') liqueur was developed during the industrial revolution, and its importance as a crop increased dramatically in the mid 19th Century as many vineyards were wiped out by the phylloxera infestation. By 1875, 350 hectares of blackcurrants were growing in the Côte-d'Or .

These days, Cassis de Dijon and Crème de cassis de Bourgogne are protected by IGP (indications géographiques protégées) status.

Félix Kir, a mayor on a mission!

A diplomatic coctkail: kir

Though cassis liqueur has a long history in Burgundy, it was given new life when Félix Kir, mayor of the Burgundy city of Dijon, popularised the "blanc-cassis" cocktail - crème de cassis topped up with white wine - by offering it to delegations from other countries.

Kir was a pioneer of the sister city movement in the aftermath of the Second World War, and thanks to him, Dijon is twinned with Mainz in Germany, York in Britain, and Dallas in the USA.

Following Mayor Kir's revival of the cocktail, local producers of crème de cassis asked him for the right to use his name, and so what was previously known as "blanc-cassis" became known as a kir cocktail.

Switch the white wine in your kir cocktail for Champagne, and you have a 'kir royal'. Top your creme de cassis up with a light red wine, eg. a gamay/Beaujolais, and you're drinking a 'communard'. The most unusual cassis cocktail, however, is probably the 'fond de culotte', in which cassis is topped up with the gentiane liqueur, Suze. Try it if you dare!

Our Burgundy cycle tour: the cassis tasting!

Burgundy's pride in their blackcurrants is such that they even have a museum dedicated to it! Le Cassissium not only walks visitors through the history of the "Super Cassis", but also gives them a guided tour of the Védrenne liqueur factory - and, of course, the trip wouldn't be complete without the chance to sample the product...

If all of that sounds as enticing to you as it does to us, you can visit Le Cassissium on the last day of our Burgundy cycling tour (see header image). The cycling ranges from easy on some days to moderate on others, but should be comfortably achievable for anyone of reasonable fitness.

Other Burgundy tour highlights include:

The majestic Abbey of Cluny and the 12th Century Château de Sercy
Sweeping landscapes of vineyards, forests and hills
Cycling and wine tasting in the prestigious Cote d'Or
Medieval masterpieces in Tournus and Beaune

Travel to: Mâcon, France for Day 1 of the tour.

The stunning Château d’Igé in Burgundy, France

Van Gogh at Saint Paul de la Mausole

Wed, 31 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000

For anybody thinking of taking our Provence Roman Heritage Tour, a fascinating new book might be interesting pre-tour reading for one of the tour highlights! The sanitorium at Saint-Paul-de-la-Mausole, on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy, has always been one of the most memorable visits of the tour.

Details of the most harrowing period in the life of Vincent van Gogh, including the names of the men who shared his year of confinement at the sanatorium, and his mental collapses when he tried to poison himself with his own paints, have been revealed in a book by author Martin Bailey.

It was a period of anguish but extraordinary creativity for Van Gogh, in which he produced some of his most dazzling and beloved works, now in museum collections across the world – all based on brief outings, the views through the barred window of his room and many days spent painting in the asylum gardens.

Bailey has traced the admissions register and other records from Saint-Paul de Mausole, a small asylum on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, for the period when Van Gogh was admitted as a private patient, a stay paid for by his brother Theo. The register shows Vincent van Gogh, 36, from Arles but born in the Netherlands, was admitted on 8 May 1889. Through the register, Bailey traced the 18 male patients including an elderly priest, Jean Revello, and Henri Enrico, who was described as constantly smashing up furniture and crockery. Bailey was able to match many of the names with death certificates and other evidence, and details of medical conditions and minimal treatment in a later book by the asylum director.

Revello, admitted two years before Van Gogh, aged 20, would spend the next half century in the asylum and die there in 1932. Van Gogh described fellow patients, whom he called “my companions in misfortune”, slumped into silent resignation, with no treatment and nothing to fill their days except the next stodgy meal, eaten with a spoon because of the risk from knives and forks. Some, however, were very troubled. In one letter, he described the long nights: “One continually hears shouts and terrible howls as of animals in a menagerie.”

The artist was judged by his brother and friends to be unfit to live alone after he mutilated himself, cutting off his ear and presenting it, wrapped in paper, to a young woman in a local brothel, following the collapse of a proposed artistic partnership with Paul Gauguin.

The register was key to discovering previously unknown details of the artist’s time there, including the fact that neither his friends from Arles, 16 miles (25km) away, nor Theo ever visited.

Theo Van Gogh was kept informed by the stream of illustrated letters from his brother, but also news from the asylum director of Van Gogh’s three serious collapses over the year, when the paints he tried to swallow had to be taken from him, and he was confined to a small, bare, locked room instead of his usual bright bedroom and separate studio on an upper floor.

The director, Théophile Peyron, wrote: “On several occasions he has attempted to poison himself, either by swallowing colours that he used for painting, or by ingesting paraffin, which he had taken from the boy while he was filling his lamps.” His brother, recently married and expecting his first child in Paris, stayed away.

Bailey said: “I now appreciate quite what a terrifying environment it must have been for Van Gogh.

“That makes it even more astonishing that he was able to create some of his finest and [most] optimistic paintings in such a situation. I am also convinced that it was his art which enabled him to survive.”

It had been suggested that Van Gogh might have been sent to an asylum in Marseille that had more than 1,000 patients, which Bailey believes would have destroyed the artist.

The Saint-Paul asylum, which remains part of a psychiatric hospital, was once a monastery. As an asylum, it originally held more patients, initially offered first, second and third-class accommodation at different prices. By Van Gogh’s arrival, the male wing was almost empty, so each man had plenty of space.

Conditions were improving under a new director from an earlier stage, when an unpublished official report condemned neglect, terrible food, and elderly, incontinent patients lying on straw mattresses described as reduced to manure. Life there by Van Gogh’s time was boring, but not brutal.

Van Gogh was released on 16 May 1890, at his own request, despite evidence of mental collapse following his previous brief breaks from the asylum. He yearned for new spring landscapes to paint, blamed the company of his fellow patients for his previous and longest collapse, and wrote “the prison was crushing me”.

The final medical note described Van Gogh as “cured”. He travelled to northern France to begin again, but after a final burst of creativity, he died within two months – 36 hours after shooting himself in the stomach while out painting in the midsummer fields.

“There have been suggestions that his death was an accident or even manslaughter, but that’s nonsense,” Bailey said.

“The evidence of his mental state in the previous year makes it incontrovertible that he took his own life, but it was thanks to the asylum, his strength of will and his art that he survived that year in which he was able to create so much.”

Starry Night, Van Gogh at the Asylum, written by Martin Bailey, is published by White Lion Publishing

To visit Van Gogh's sanatorium on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour, click here!

New Tour! Mont Aigoual and the Cevennes

Tue, 27 Nov 2018 00:00:00 +0000

We are proud to announce a brand new tour for 2019! Set in the stunning Cévennes hills just north of the Mediterranean plain, the tour represents a bridge between our luxury leisure tours and our full on mountain tours, and is ideal for riders who have a few seasons' riding experience, and want to add a bit of a challenge to their cycling vacation. Whilst the riding is a bit more challenging than our leisure tours, the comfort levels are just as high, staying in 4* and 3* hotels in dramatic settings, with the highest standards of food and wine as you would expect from our leisure trips.

The medieval skyline of Uzès

The route starts in the wonderful town of Uzès, one of our favourite places on any of our tours, with it's restored pedestrianised medieval centre. Early arrivals get the chance to visit the magnificent Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct. The following days venture into ever wilder and remote countryside, with some of the most dramatic scenery in France - but don't worry, each day ends at a very comfortable and characterful hotel, with an elegant three or four course dinner awaiting!

Cirque de Navacelles

Some of the amazing sites you will see include Mont Aigoual, the highest point in the Cévennes, where the weather station often sits above the clouds; the Gorges of the River tarn, one of the most stunning cycling roads in Europe, and the Cirque du Navacelles, a dramatic crater cut into the limestone plateau by the meandering River Vis. An optional ride gives the chance to see, from below, Sir Richard Rogers' astonishing Viaduc de Millau, the motorway bridge spanning the Tarn Gorge at a height greater than the Eiffel Tower!

Viaduc de Millau

Hotels vary between a 15th Century Château, a medieval stagecoach inn, a 14th century fortified farmhouse and a converted distillery! Restaurants feature local specialities with a sophisticated twist, and take advantage of the game of the mountains, the lamb of the limestone plateau, seafood from the nearby Mediterranean - and many local cheeses, the most famous of which is Roquefort which comes from the limestone causses near Millau.

To see full details of the new tour, about which we are incredibly excited, click here.

Théâtre Antique d'Orange

Sat, 08 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Always one of the highlights on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour is our visit to the Roman Theatre in Orange. Built in the 1st Century AD, the Orange theatre is one of the best preserved of all the Roman theatres.

Playing a major role in the life of the citizens, who spent a large part of their free time there, the theatre was seen by the Roman authorities not only as a means of spreading Roman culture to the colonies, but also as a way of distracting them from all political activities.

Mime, pantomime, poetry readings and the "attelana" (a kind of farce rather like the commedia dell'arte) was the dominant form of entertainment, much of which lasted all day. For the common people, who were fond of spectacular effects, magnificent stage sets became very important, as was the use of stage machinery. The entertainment offered was open to all and free of charge.

As the Western Roman Empire declined during the 4th century, by which time Christianity had become the official religion, the theatre was closed by official edict in AD 391, since the Church, ever the killjoys, even then, opposed what it regarded as uncivilized spectacles. After that, the theatre was abandoned completely. It was probably pillaged by the Visigoths in 412, and like most Roman buildings was certainly stripped of its better stone over the centuries for reuse. It was used as a defensive post in the Middle Ages. During the 16th-century religious wars, it became a refuge for the townspeople.

The cultural authorities in France are always very pro-active in enhancing the visitor experience to their sites, and this year the curators of the Theatre have introduce a wonderful new 3D virtual reality tour showing the construction and development of the site by the Romans. A taster can be seen below.

The Orange theatre was created under the rule of Augustus, and is believed to be one of the first of its kind in this area of modern-day France. One of the most iconic parts of this structure is the grand exterior facade, which measures to be 103 meters long and 37 meters high. Originally, there was a wooden roof across the theatre to protect the audience from unfavorable weather conditions. There is evidence on the walls that shows that, at some point, the roof was destroyed in a fire. Although it is relatively sparse in decoration and embellishment, the three story wall gives an overwhelmingly powerful appearance to the entire building. The main three doors on the first level of the facade open directly onto the stage inside the theatre, which can seat from 5,800 up to 7,300 (today, much of the seating has been reconstructed to ensure the safety of tourists and audience members).

The stage, which is 61 meters long and raised about one meter from the ground, is backed by a 37 meter high wall whose height has been preserved completely. This wall is vital to the theatre, as it helped to project sound to the large audience. The wall, also known as the scaenae frons, is the only architecturally decorated surface throughout the entire theatre. It originally was embellished with marble mosaics of many different colours, multiple columns and friezes, and statues placed in niches. The central niche contains a 3.5 meter high statue of the emperor Augustus, although this was most likely a restoration of an original statue of Apollo, the god of music and the arts. The central door, below the niche containing this statue, is called the Royal Door, or valva regia. This door was used only by the most important, principal actors to enter and exit the stage. Above the door was a frieze decorated with centaurs, which is no longer there but is instead on display across the street in the Orange Museum (unfortunately only remains are left). The stage was covered with a modern platform when the theatre began to be used again for operas and other performances.

Normandy Landings 75th Anniversary

Thu, 07 Mar 2019 00:00:00 +0000

On a typical wet and windy English summer 75 years ago, generals from the American, British, and Canadian armed forces were anxiously looking at weather forecasts. The planned seaborne invasion of Nazi held France was limited to a select few days where there would be a full moon for aircraft to see targets and high tides to get troops as high up the beaches as possible. The 5th June 1944 was selected as the ideal date, but on 4th of June high winds and heavy seas made it impossible to launch landing craft, and low clouds would prevent aircraft from finding their targets.

Just as commanders were on the point of postponing the invasion for another month, the Allied meteorological team predicted that the weather would improve sufficiently so that the liberation could begin on 6 June…

The 75th anniversary of the greatest military exploit that the world has ever seen will see huge celebrations across the Normandy region, with special exhibitions, installations and re-enactments along the stretch of coastline that includes the Utah, Omaha, Sword, Juno and Gold landing beaches.

The Normandy Tour

Our Normandy tour on 21st July visits many of the key locations, including the landing beaches, museums at Arromanches, St-Côme-du-Mont and Ste-Mère-Eglise, as well as the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, above the Omaha beaches where the fiercest fighting took place. Omaha in particular is an incredibly moving testament to the bravery and sacrifice that so many young men gave to liberate the continent from Nazi tyranny.

Not just tanks!

The tour is not just about the war, taking in as it does the astonishing Mont St-Michel with its 12th Century Abbey , and the town of Bayeux with its legendary tapestry telling the story of the Norman Invasion of England in 1066. All of this is linked by quiet cycling roads through woods and forests, alongside beaches, and through pastures and orchards producing world renowned cheeses, butter, cider and calvados.

You can get more details of the tour here! As with all of our tours, the Normandy Tour features character 3- and 4* accommodation, and great restaurants specialising in local cuisine and produce, quiet cycling routes and our friendly, knowledgeable, attentive bilingual guides!

Tour de France 2019

Sat, 11 May 2019 00:00:00 +0000

New Tour - Mont Aigoual and the Cevennes

Thu, 31 Oct 2019 00:00:00 +0000

2019 saw the inaugural running of the spectacular Cevennes Tour. We have pitched this ride somewhere between our leisure cycling trips and our full-on alpine tours in terms of cycling effort - so it is ideal for enthusiastic riders wanting a serious challenge while taking advantage of the luxury hotels and sophisticated cuisine of our leisure tours.

One of the riders on the first running of the Cevennes tour, a veteran of several French Cycling trips described it as 'the most beautiful cycling scenery he'd ever experienced'. From the lofty weather station on Mont Aigoual, to the stunning gorges of the River Tarn, to the breathtaking Cirque de Navacelles, this remote part of France is captured at its most captivating.

Starting in the bustling Roman town of Uzès, the tour heads into the wilds of the Cevennes hills, with roads winding up to the summit of Mont Aigoual before descending into the pretty market town of Meyrueis. A loop day following the magnificent gorges of the River Tarn is followed by the challenge of the Navacelles valley, where the River Vis has cut a 300m deep gorge and formed an oxbow resulting in a vast natural amphitheatre. The tour finishes with an easy into Alès, which is a short jump back to Uzes or Nimes should you wish to stay a few days longer to explore.The tour has something of everything!

As an added bonus for 2020, the Tour de France is tackling Mont Aigoual on 2nd July. So if you want to ride the same roads 2 days earlier, with the fans already camping out by the side of the road, join our tour departing 28th June!

New Hotel Showcase - Château du Puits es Pratx

Thu, 19 Dec 2019 00:00:00 +0000

As part of our ongoing quest to improve the French Cycling Holidays experience, we are always on the lookout for quiet roads, visits, restaurants and hotels that will enhance our tours. We came across the Château du Puits while we were finding quieter roads from Béziers on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi Tour. The Château had not been operating as a hotel for long, and had therefore been going under our radar, but a visit told us that it was just what we were looking for! The château had been bought by Londoners Tim and Sasha looking for a new life in the sun.

Coincidentally the day after we made our first reservations, the hotel made the first of many features on the UK television programme "Escape to the Château" which chronicles the work of people who have similarly made the leap to start a new business to realise their dreams. Below is a compilation of the hotel's appearances!

The beautiful 19th C Hotel was originally a winemaker's domaine, and still has extensive cellars. The restaurant "L'Es Pratx" is a destination for residents of surrounding villages as well as hotel guests. There is a swimming pool which can be covered in the event of cooler weather, and a spa for treatments and massages. After a successful collaboration in 2019, we hope for a long partnership!

Carrières de Lumières 2020 - Dali and Gaudi

Mon, 27 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000

On our Provence Roman Heritage tour, one of the most talked-about visits is the old bauxite quarry at the hilltop village of Les Baux. Now known as the Carrières de Lumières, it is host to a stunning sound and light display which changes its theme each year, picking a different artist and their works. Previous displays have involved Gaugin, Van Gogh and Bosch amongst many others - 2020's exhibition promises to be one of the most spectacular, with Salvador Dali's surreal landscapes adorning the massive blocks of hewn stone in the underground quarry. For an idea of the visit, the video below (of 2014's Picasso event) gives a flavour, though in truth the scale of the spectacle needs to bee seen first hand to be appreciated!

The idea of Dali's melting watches from "Persistence of Memory" sliding down giant slabs of limestone is quite intriguing! In addition to the Dali exhibit, their will also be a display celebrating the work of the architect Antoni Gaudi, most famous for the Sagrada Familia cathedral on Barcelona. Gaudi helped change the face of modern architecture, and the exhibition will bring his imagination vividly to life.

Featured Tour - Provence Villages of The Luberon

Fri, 31 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000

This month we are looking at one of our most popular tours, the Villages of The Luberon. It's one of our oldest tours, and we've refined it over the years so now it is, dare we say it, the perfect introduction to this dramatic region.

The Luberon is a massif in central Provence, sitting between the Mediterranean plain and the foothills of the Alps. It has a remarkable quality of light which attracted artists like Van Gogh and Cezanne, and richly colourful landscapes of lavender, sunflowers, vines and ochre rocks. Set amongst all this fabulous scenery are the villages! Peter Mayle discovered the charms of the area when he settled here and it inspired him to write A Year in Provence which became an international best seller. Menerbes, where Mayle made his home, is one of the beautiful villages we visit, perched on a hill with wonderful views all around.

Another perched village, Gordes, is a jewel of the Luberon- you may recognise it from the Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard movie A Good Year. We also ride through Lacoste, home of the Marquis de Sade, and Lormarin, where Albert Camus lived and was is buried in the local cemetery. Bedoin is a great cycling centre, basecamp for the celebrated 'Giant of Provence', Mont Ventoux (of which more below).

While riding the quiet roads of the Luberon, you will often be pedalling through vineyards. The local grapes are Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache, and they make a great hearty, fruity red that is as good for quaffing with cheese as it is accompanying a meal. You will also see plenty of goats, and goats cheese often appears on restaurant menus - along with fish from the nearby Mediterranean, local game like rabbit and wild boar, truffles from the scrub oak forests, and of course, the signature dish of Provence, ratatouille, made with local peppers, courgettes, aubergines and tomatoes, and plenty of golden olive oil from the region's oil mills.

Our ride takes us through the best of this gorgeous landscape, culminating for those who want to, to tackle Mont Ventoux itself. For those who want an easier route, you're not missing out because the alternate route takes in the breathtakingly spectacular Gorges of the River Nesque. Both groups meet up for lunch in Bedoin! The terrain is quite hilly, but easily achievable for regular cyclists - if you have any doubts e-bikes are also available for the ride, which is a fantastic option if you are couple/group of mixed ability.

As the Luberon is a featured tour, we are running a promotion during the months of February and March - contact us by e-mail at fch@frenchcycling.com or phone on +44 1923 894305 to discuss what special offers we can tempt you with!

Is a French Cycling Holiday for you? Of course it is!!!!

Mon, 09 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Have you ever wanted to visit an area of France but the thought of trying to navigate in a different country has put you off? Take a coach/bus tour, but then not being able to stop and take pictures when you want…?

If you answered yes, then that is why a FCH guided cycling trip is so much better and so fun!!

Someone suggests a cycling holiday and two images may come to mind. You on a bike, baguette in your basket, maybe some cheese and wine…ah lovely…..or do you picture those tortured soles with large bags attached to their back wheels barely being able to stay upright?

On our tours, your first image is better..we take care of transporting your luggage and we provide the baguette, wine and cheese plus so much more.

Let us put your first question aside - can you do it? YES you can do it!! Everyone who has ridden a bike before can participate in a FCH tour as we have different levels of tours to suit all rider types. We also have van support for anyone who feels like they have had enough for the day and just want a break!

We use lightweight TREK hybrid bikes that are comfortable when riding on roads, bike paths, trails etc. Our guides keep them highly maintained and ride them with you!

Trek Hybrid Fleet

Even if you have a partner/spouse /friend who wants to holiday with you but is worried about the cycling, have no fear. You can add the option of an e-bike rental. With the evolution of e-bikes everyone can enjoy the fresh air and still feel like they have worked to earn their 3 course dinner and glass of wine at the end of the day. Plus you get to enjoy the scenery all around you without worrying about trying to keep up with your travelling companion!

Not sure about an e-bike or what it is? You hear people say it is cheating…that is only because they have not tried one!

An e-bike open doors for more and more people to either continue there passion to cycle as they have aged or suffered injuries or just make life simpler. On all our tours we have options for you to rent an e-bike. We know of people buying e-bikes for a greener way to commute to work, for local shopping trips , travelling around town but whatever the reason we love them

Enjoying the ease of an e-bike on our leisure tours

So E-bikes what does that actually mean? We at FCH get many questions…so the answer is NO - there is not a really long electrical cord that goes from the bike to the van while you ride along….

Do you still need to pedal? .....Yes! Like a regular bike if you stop pedalling the bike will eventually stop.

In simple terms there is a rechargeable battery attached to a small motor on the bike that provides assistance when you are pedalling when or if you want /need it.

If for example you are riding on flat terrain you would just ride the bike like normal - pedal pedal - if however you are tired or on rolling terrain , you turn on the electric assist ( usually a button on your handlebar) and the motor will provide electric power as you pedal. You still switch gears as the terrain changes just like a regular bike ( this helps the battery life).

The electric assist is a great feeling as it can make the cycling effortless when you want it to and flattens out those hills! Be aware you may have a string of riders behind you drafting to make their own hill climbing easier!

A road e-bike by GIANT for our sport tours

So there you have it, join us with or without an e-bike as we explore France together. For full details about all our tours and what’s included click here......and when you see that wine is included yes that is correct wine is included!

Discover some of French Cycling Holidays favorite french cheeses - Les Fromages de France!

Fri, 08 May 2020 00:00:00 +0000

If you have ever been fortunate to indulge in a picnic on one of our tours you will know that local cheeses play a big part. In fact, cheese is available at your breakfast, lunch and if by dinner you still do not feel you have had enough of this yummy goodness then there is always the cheese option before dessert!

Quite often when cheese is a dinner option some of our guests INITIALLY say no, however minds are easily swayed when the cheese arrives.

The cheese course can be offered up on a plate; or via a chariot. Yes that’s right, the famous chariot de fromages! A cart filled with more french cheeses than one can imagine rolled to your table for you to select.

The cheese chariot at the Stéphane Derbord restaurant last dinner place of the Burgundy Tour

How do you even start to choose your cheese?

Thankfully your server will assist you. Generally the rule of thumb when serving french cheese is serve at minimum 3 different cheeses; a hard, soft and a strong/smelly; think blue or goat. One thing when serving french cheese is it should always be an ODD number; the french believe this is aesthetically pleasing and really who are we to argue!

A three variety selection

When the plate is served to you the cheese is placed in a specific manner. Your server will advise you what cheese is on your plate and the order in which to eat them.

Why is there an order to eating cheese?

In order to ensure your taste buds are able to appreciate all cheeses on your plate, you are to eat from mildest to the strongest..think Brie, goat cheese, roquefort. If you were to eat the strong one first…well you get it. Yes, we take our cheese seriously!!

Favorite french cheeses that the French Cycling Holiday guides enjoy!

In reality there are many many favorite cheeses we enjoy as we like nothing better than breaking off a piece of baguette, grabbing a chunk of cheese and washing it down with a lovely glass of wine but we thought we would start with some french cheeses that you may not be as familiar with.

On all our tours you will discover the local cheeses and other products the region is known for which brings us to our first cheese, Mike's favorite french cheese that comes from the Dordogne region.

Often people think of Dordogne and the famous Rocamadour goat cheese ( we ride by this wonderful smelly goat farm La Ferme la Borie d’Imbert on the Dordogne tour on our way to our hotel Thursday ) however, the Dordogne region offers many other cheeses. One of those is Trappe Échourgnac or more specifically Mikes favorite the Petit- Noix Trappe d' Échourgnac.

Sisters at the Abbey Échourgnac

Échourgnac is located between the start of our Bordeaux Wine tour in Libourne and our Dordogne Caves and Castle tour.

A cow’s cheese, the original and still made Trappe d'Échourgnac Nature (natural) dates back to 1868 where it was first produced by the monks at the Abbey of Échourgnac until 1910 when the monks left. Thirteen years later the Abbey was taken over by the Cistercian sisters and production started once again.

As you will learn on our Dordogne Caves and Castle tour, walnuts are another speciality of the region and in 1999 the Abbey of Échourgnac created the Trappe d'Échourgnac Petit Noix where the rind is washed in the ”Liqueur de Noix” Walnut liquor produced by the Distillerie du Perigord in Sarlat. We stay two nights in Sarlat and will have a chance to purchase these small bottles of liquor to take home as souvenirs.

The cheese has a very pale interior and a distinct walnut aroma but there is no taste of the actual alcohol just a lovely blend of walnut and mild creamy smooth dairy flavours. Thanks Mike!

Last year we launched a new tour Mont Aigoual and The Cevennes and what we love about exploring new areas in France is the new culinary delights this brings. Susan shares her story on her favorite cheese.

Having dinner one evening at L’Imprevu in Meyrueis ( a Tour de France Stage 6 stop for 2020) , the owner asked us if we would like to try a local cheese, and when he meant local he meant local! 15km away is a village Hyelzas with less than 50 inhabitants. Since 1970 the village has had a cheese dairy run by the Pratlong Family and it is this cheese dairy that brings life to this village. The Grandson of the Pratlong family had taken over this dairy and created the ‘Titounet”.

Titounet means "little lamb" in Occitan, the old Romance language spoken in the southern France. Therefore you have probably deduced this is a sheep cheese. The cheese made from raw sheep milk is matured for two weeks and is packaged in a traditional artisanal box. The cheese was served warm and you scoop out the creaminess with a spoon. The taste similar perhaps to a camembert but with a subtle sweetness but still enough tang! We ate it later in the week at a picnic ensuring it had come to room temperature and it was just as delicious. At this point to enjoy this cheese you will need to join us here in France!

Always a mountain man!

It was hard to get David to commit to just choosing one cheese and it would appear we need to dedicate an entire blog about cheeses from Burgundy ( Bourgogne) - they are amazing to be fair, however when pressed, as one who knows him may expect, he chose a mountain cheese.

Beaufort is a town in the region of Savoie and where the Beaufort cheese gets its name. It is a favorite place for cyclist in the area to ride to as it has a bustling little centre with enough cafes, boulangeries and restaurants to meet for your lunch or mid ride coffee shop. The Beaufort cheese tart is the hit amongst cyclist looking to refuel. We will see if Mike can whip one up for us and share his recipe!

Many of our guests who have ridden our Legendary Cols tour over the years will be familiar with this stop in Beaufort as on our tour it is the lunch stop when they ride the Cormet de Roseland and the more recent Lake Annecy tour introduced in 2018 as a coffee stop. Tour de France viewers will have seen Beaufort no less than 10 times featured in the tour with the most recently seen last year 2019.

There are 2 seasons for Beaufort cheese. Beaufort d’été ( summer) made from June 1 to October 30 and Beaufort d'hiver (winter) made from November 1 to May 31.

David’s preference is for the Beaufort d’été where the cows have roamed the grassy fields eating the Alpine herbs and wildflowers which gives the cheese a fruity taste. During the summer when riding in the Savoie region you often run into the farmers walking their cows down the streets bringing the cows to different pastures once they have effectively “mowed” the fields of the wild flowers where they were! Beaufort d’hiver on the other hand where the cows are sheltered in the winter and feast on the hay gathered during the summer which produces a sweeter taste.

There you have it 3 of our favorite french cheeses, we hope you can join us on a tour and try them! Book Now for 2021

Exploring some of our hotels Part 1 - Burgundy Wine Explorer Tour

Fri, 06 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

In our Autumn/Fall Newsletter we told you we will highlight some of the amazing locations we stay at. All selected for the character, charm and for the people who run them! We have missed all of our partners this year and we look forward to introducing them to you when you holiday with us next year! Here is a taste of one of our amazing accommodations from our tour in "Bourgogne" Burgundy region of France.

Burgundy Wine Explorer Tour

Cycling in Burgundy often takes people by surprise due to the sheer amount of vineyards that we ride through. La Bourgogne is not often thought of as the “wine destination” and people are genuinely excited to learn about the wines of Burgundy and intrigued in how they relate to the many Châteaux and Abbeys in the region.

So where better to start than a stay at the magnificent Château d’Igé?

Surrounded by vineyards, the first documented history of the Château d’Igé begins with a legal document in 1235, bearing the seal of King Louis IX. The document discusses the subject that the Abbaye de Cluny was trying to prevent the Count de Mâcon, Lord of Igé, from constructing a fortified manor.

Shortly after the fall of the Bastille during the French Revolution, the Château d’ Igé was sacked and pillaged, with some outbuildings destroyed. As the story goes, the lord of the château, had to abandon the property and hide in the woods. It is believed the château was especially targeted because the lord had laid claim to a well and had even gone so far as to enclose it. When the revolutionaries ransacked the property, the enclosure around the well was the first to be destroyed.The château gradually deteriorated until 1972 when Henri Jadot restored and transformed the property into a hotel which it remains today and weclomes you on the first night our Burgundy Tour! Your stay in this luxury Castle hotel will not disappoint.You will be sad to leave but will need to get on your bike the next morning and ride to the Abbaye de Cluny to continue the history of the regions and it’s wine!. To book or for more details click here.

Room at Chateau D'Ige

Each room has its own style and character, some with vaulted ceilings, canopy beds, period fireplaces and tower rooms that will take you back in time but leave you with the feeling of warmth. And while the rooms are magnificent, the famous restaurant under the George Blanc signature is where you will experience dining just like the Kings and Queens of its past!

Exploring some of our hotels Part 2 - Provence Tours!

Tue, 17 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

In our Autumn/Fall Newsletter we told you we will highlight some of the amazing locations we stay at. All selected for the character, charm and for the people who run them! We have missed all of our partners this year and we look forward to introducing them to you when you holiday with us next year! Here is another one of our accommodations, this one from our tours in Provence - Roman Heritgage and Provence - Lavender in Luberon.

View from the terrace of the avenue of Plane trees

When you choose an accommodation and use it for two of your tours you know it is something special. A few years ago we needed a new start location for our Provence tours and selected the Hotel L’Hermitage. For us it depicts the exact essence of a typical Provencal home. And a home is exactly what it feels like when you stay here. Owners Philippe and Marie and their wonderful dog Oscar could not be more welcoming. The house is set in a century old park with a newly installed swimming pool to relax by and soak in the provencal sun. The sound of the cicadas as you stroll in the garden, admiring the fountains and statues hidden around the grounds, followed by a glass of Rosé on the terrace instantly puts you in vacation mode as you get ready to ride down a lane of Plane trees to the old iron gates of the manor to start your cycling adventure. To book or for more details email us at fch@frenchcycling.com or click here.

Terrace of the Hotel l'Hermitage

A Bordeaux Bespoke Tour Experience.

Wed, 09 Dec 2020 00:00:00 +0000

We often get requests for bespoke cycling tours and this time round our customers were looking for Wine exploring in Bordeaux as well as a gastronomic food experience. For those who know our fearless leader Mike you will know that he is a keen foodie and can talk about wine in his sleep - he was most certainly up for the challenge. How does a bespoke tour work? You tell us what distances you would like to ride, types of places you want to visit and we look to make that happen. This group of men were looking for longer days in the saddle than most of our tours, wine tastings and Michelin star restaurants. What did they get....the best!

Mike arranged wine tastings workshops with an oenologist, a wine blending class where each participant created their own wine and took home a small bottle labeled with their name and more. For the gastronomic food? My mouth waters remembering Mikes choices.

The exquisite Michelin starred restaurant Logis de la Cadène in St Emilion ( click here for a peak at the menu always seasonal and fresh), the gastronomic and also Michelin starred L'Auberge St Jean located 10 minutes outside St Emilion with tables set overlooking the Dordgone river and many other gastronomic delights awaited the boys that week. Pricing for bespoke trips vary according to your wants and can be tailored to your group. If you are interested in your own tour contact us via email or phone.

The boys sent us a short clip of their time with us! Enjoy!

It is not just about the cycling...we love Food!

Tue, 02 Feb 2021 00:00:00 +0000

As you know our tours are not just about the cycling, we believe in great food and wine to reward all the cycling we do. Every year we research restaurants both from the office and on the ground, looking for both great reviews and word of mouth feedback, and if our choice of restaurants always receives particular appreciation in your feedback. Mind you anyone who has had one of our picnics knows it is not always the restaurant serving the best meal of the day. ( The guides made me put that in!)

Each year restaurants wait with bated breath to see if their restaurants are granted a coveted Michelin star, or an extra toque in the Guide Gault Millau ( this is the chef's accolade, because it focusses purely on the food and not the décor!) With Covid 19 pretty much wiping out most business opportunities it was with surprise that we read that stars were still to be awarded. A feat that perhaps even harder to achieve last year due to the amount of time the restaurants were required to be closed. Being creative in these times we know has been key for the survival of many businesses and restaurants were no exception. France, being well known for its gastronomy and love for long social lunches and even longer dinners had to decide; would the French people appreciate the efforts to offer a takeaway or, without the convivial ambience of the restaurant would the kitchens close?

Luckily for food lovers, French gourmets rallied round. Michelin starred restaurants in many cases adapted menus to ensure the deliverance of the takeaway did not comprise their standard and in many cases cut prices on these offerings. Enterprising individuals realized quickly that this was a real opportunity with Foodtruck and Pop Up offerings of quality food. Of note was the two time Michelin starred chef Alexandre Mazzia who sold over 200 Michelin star quality meals each day from a food truck in Marseille for 30€ and was awarded his 3rd star. If you fly into Marseille at the beginning of your French Cycling Holiday, book in advance to reserve a table at his restaurant eponymously named AM par Alexandre Mazzia.

And, closer to French Cycling home, it is with great pleasure that we annonce the restaurant at one of our long-time hotels, the Chateau de Mazan has received its first Michelin Star.⭐️ We have been staying many years at the former home of the Marquis de Sade on the last evening on our Provence Luberon Tour eating and sleeping in this beautiful Chateau - what better way to celebrate riding the spectacular Gorges de la Nesque or conquering Mont Ventoux? While sadly for 2020 we were unable to run any of our tours as many of you could not travel to us, we therefore missed out on eating the creations of this new chef, but we look forward to eating there in 2021.

The head of restaurant review for the Michelin guide did assure the public that the same rigour used in previous years by their inspectors was used in 2020. Inspectors worked double time and forwent their summer holidays in order to eat and drink in as many French restaurants that were open between the Spring and Autumn lockdown, judging as many meals as the previous years…Hmmm if this statement was supposed to make us feel for the clearly overworked inspectors, it has fallen flat on this particular writer!

Spring into Summer update!

Fri, 14 May 2021 00:00:00 +0000

May 2021 - Spring into Summer Update

We hope you have all survived the last year with limited travel and are as excited as us with the reopening of France over the next few weeks.With the recent announcement that France is further opening its borders to Non-EU tourists, my email box has been brimming with questions! We are very much wanting to see all of you and thought we would give you a few key dates of stages of reopening in France so you can fully understand where we are at.

KEY DATES

May 19, 2021

Gatherings of more than10 people will be allowed and our current curfew is pushed back from 7pm to 9pm. In bigger news, if we want to have a meal outside of our own kitchens ( and we all know we do!) then a meal out is possible IF the bar or restaurant have an outside seating area. However, restauranters are only allowed 50% capacity on the terrace. With many terraces able to seat 25, this leaves them with 10-15 people which is not economical for many to reopen at this time. If you are lucky to be in an area with a restaurant terrace open we are restricted to 6 per table. Inside dining is still prohibited at this date.

June 9, 2021

We welcome tourists back to France - with a Health Pass! More details about the Health Pass will be shared within the next few weeks, however in essence the idea is that anyone who has been vaccinated by one of the 4 vaccines; Pfizer- BioNTech, Moderna, AstraZeneca and Janssen (Johnson & Johnson); has a negative Covid test within 72 hours or has recently recovered from Covid will be allowed entry into France.

Reopening of all cafés and restaurants inside and outside allowed, with the same 50% capacity restriction in place and we are allowed to stay up a little later.

June 30, 2021

We are no longer teenagers - End of Curfew! We can have a private party with 1000 of you or 800 indoors if it is raining! Restaurants are to be back to full capacity, tourist attractions and cultural sites fully opened.

We are taking reservations and currently have plans for the following dates:

September 5, 2021 - Provence Villages of the Luberon

September 12, 2021 - Legendary Cols of the French Alps - LAST FEW

September 19, 2021 - Bordeaux Vineyards

September 26, 2021 - Loire Valley

October 3, 2021 - Mediterranean Coast and Canal du Midi - LAST FEW

October 10, 2021 - Provence Roman Heritage

October 17, 2021 - Coming soon....( Based on demand)

If there is a tour that you are interested in and is not on the above list please contact us at fch@frenchcycling.com.

For earlier dates, if you have a group of 6 or more that can join a tour together we will be happy to look at organizing a tour. If you are in France and looking for a short stay combining cycling and cooking or cycling and yoga ( minimum 3 nights); take a look at our bespoke tours found on our website here. Please as always contact Mike, Joe or Susan at +44 1923 894305 or by email at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com or through any of our social media messaging for any questions or queries!

How was our 2021 Season? We tell you in our latest blog!

Tue, 04 Jan 2022 00:00:00 +0000

2021 was a short but sweet season for us!

Our season did not start until September when we welcomed old friends from Canada, Finland and the United States, and some new friends from Switzerland and the United States.

We started off in Provence, discovering the villages of the Provence Luberon Valley. Many people are lured there due to the popularity of the book a Year in Provence, penned by the author Peter Mayle who documented stories of his life there, and the romance of the Russell Crowe movie “A Good Year”. Maybe the name "Luberon Valley" is still somewhat unknown, but perhaps that is why our customers are always so enchanted and charmed by this area when they do join us. Provence is one of those areas that we can travel to almost all year round because of the great weather! Below picture is dining outside at the Moulin de Lourmarin.

From there we headed north to the French Alps, for one of our mountain sports tours. It was one of those weeks where the weather gods were not always in our favour, but as one of our long-time sports tour customers told us "these are the tours we remember for years to come". I do not disagree! Getting to the summit of one of the famous tour de France climbs on a regular day is an achievement in itself but battling epic weather in the mountains and still cycling to the summit is medal-worthy! If you are a cycling club looking for a challenge this year or just want to get some mileage in your legs before an event, check out our tours and contact us to let us know what your group is looking for. We require a minimum of 8 to create a private custom tour and 6 for one of our scheduled tours.

One of the sunny days by Lake Annecy.....

One of the not-so-sunny days riding the Cormet de Roseland!

From the Alps, we drove cross country to Bergerac where we started our somewhat revised Bordeaux Tour. For many in the tourism industry, the last two years have been tough. As a result, some of our regular hotels and restaurants had to reduce services or chose to take the time to close and renovate.

As with everything in life, sometimes when one door closes another opens! The closures gave us an opportunity to try out new places and we met some great new people on the way. One new highlight of the Bordeaux Tour for 2021 was our stay at the wonderful Château Vigiers. With a sprawling estate to wander around, a beautifully manicured 18-hole golf course, and two on-site restaurants, it won our hearts and we look forward to staying there for two nights for 2022.

We also managed a visit to Amanda and David, owners of The Naked Vigneron, an organic winery not far from Chateau Vigiers and were warmly welcomed for a late afternoon wine and cheese tasting on their shaded terrace overlooking the estate. A great way to ease yourself into the week. Lastly, we had the opportunity to work with Laetitia from Chateau Vieux Mougnac. We started with learning about this year's crop, a walk through the vines, a tour of the cellar, picnic in the garden and then finished with a wine blending workshop where we each took home our own bottle of custom-blended wine! If those sounds like fun to you, join our June 12th tour to experience it yourself!

Click here to book.

We are taking bookings for 2022 and look forward to hearing from you!

The Secrets of Cognac

Sun, 13 Feb 2022 00:00:00 +0000

On our Cognac and the Charente Tour, we always visit one of the legendary Houses that make this very special brandy, such as Courvoisier, Martell or Hennessey. And of course, as well getting the lowdown on how the spirit is produced, we always sample the product at the end of the tour! If you would like to know a bit more about this king of spirits, read on!

History

In the 16th century, Dutch traders were making bases along the west coast of France to supply both Holland and its worldwide empire. Although the famous clarets of Bordeaux were very popular, keeping the wines in good condition over long journeys was problematic, so a few enterprising traders started distilling the wine into eau de vie, the generic name for spirit drinks (whisky is derived from the Gaelic for "Water of Life" which means the same thing). The distilled spirits could be transported without degrading, and proved popular in their own right. The Dutch merchants called their product brandewijn (‘burnt wine’), and this became corrupted by English merchants as "Brandy". The traders also realised that they could up the alcohol content, and therefore save space, by double-distilling the spirit, and this became a feature of the region.

In the Eighteenth Century, with Dutch influence waning, other merchants arrived and founded the great Cognac houses; Jean Martell the first in 1715, followed soon by Rémy-Martin, with Richard Hennessey arriving from Ireland in 1755. These years saw the glass technology evolve so that it became possible for the brandy to be shipped in bottles, rather than casks: this advance saw for the first time the name Cognac appearing on the end product, so that consumers would know where their drink came from, and because of this the reputation of quality for the eaux-de-vie from the Charente region became established.

Production

Unlike prestigious wine growers, Cognac producers do not grow their own grapes, but rather buy in from growers surrounding the towns of Jarnac and Cognac. Our Cognac and Charente ride takes place entirely within the catchment area for these grapes. The grapes used are not the familiar ones known to wine connoisseurs, being Ugni Blanc (known to Italians as Trebbiano), Folle Blanche and Colombard; these together have to make up 90% of the grape content in order to qualify for the Cognac appelation. The wine, always white, used for Cognac production is rather acidic and not particularly drinkable, but does have great attributes for distillation and aging. The grape growing area is divided into more- and less prestigious areas; briefly, the closer the vineyard is to Cognac and Jarnac, the more prestigious. These grapes will command higher prices and generally make up the bulk of the production of the big Houses.

The two most prestigious areas are called Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne (nothing to do with the fizzy stuff!) - if you see on a label "Cognac Fine Champagne", it means that the grapes come from these two areas and at least 50% from Grande Champagne. Outside of these two, radiating outwards in terms of desirability, are Fines Bois, Bons Bois, Borderies and Borderies Ordinaires. The region known as Borderies Ordinaires extends as far as the end of our ride in La Rochelle.

After pressing , the grape juice is left to ferment for 2-3 weeks, during which natural yeasts turn the sugar to alcohol; typically the resulting wine has 7-8% alcohol. The wine is then distilled twice in traditional Charentaise copper alembic stills, construction dimensions of which are prescribed in order to receive the cognac appelation. The resulting, clear, eau de vie has around a 70% alcohol content.

Aging and Blending.

The eau de vie is placed in oak barrels (from the forests of the Limousin to the north or Tronçais to the east) for aging. The minimum that the brandy must be aged before it can be legally sold as Cognac is 2 years. During this time it takes on flavour and colour from the wood, which has been toasted to enhance these aspects. The spirit loses volume through transpiration of the wood - the element lost to the atmosphere is known as the part des anges or "angels' share". Because alcohol is more volatile than water, a greater proportion of alcohol escapes, meaning that the brandy reduces in alcoholic content at roughly 4% per year so that after 10 years in the barrel the alcohol content is about 40%. Oak barrels only stop contributing flavour and colour after 40 or 50 years, so some barrels may be very old indeed!

When a Cognac is bottled and sold, its classification depends on the youngest spirit used in the blend. The classifications are as follows:

V.S. (Very Special) or ✯✯✯ (three stars) designates a blend in which the youngest brandy has been aged for at least two years in a cask.
V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) or Reserve designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is aged for at least four years in a cask.
Napoléon designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is aged for at least six years.
XO (Extra Old) The minimum age of the youngest brandy used in an XO blend is 10 years.
XXO (Extra Extra Old) is a specific indication given to wine spirits that have been aged for at least 14 years.

The abbreviations are of English words because the British were heavily involved in the export of Cognacs when the categories were introduced.

Drinking!

Cognac is often taken straight, and makes a great after dinner digestif. Usually poured into a balloon shaped glass, connoisseurs will warm the glass with the palm of their hand as this helps release the volatiles and enhances the flavours, which can contain notes of vanilla, nuts and flowers, and spices and candied fruits in very old cognacs.

However, as our visits will prove, the Cognac makers are not in the least precious about using their goods in cocktails! Cognac is less harsh than many other spirits, and brandy cocktails are very drinkable. Some of the more famous creations you might like to try:

Sidecar: 50ml cognac, 25ml Triple Sec, 25ml lemon juice, shaken over ice and strained.

Brandy Alexander: 50ml cognac, 33ml creme de cacao, 33ml cream, shaken over ice, strained and dusted with nutmeg.

Metropolitan: 60ml cognac, 30ml vermouth, 1tsp sugar syrup, dash of angostura bitters, shaken over ice and strained.

For a Between the Sheets, follow the Sidecar recipe but replace half the cognac with 25ml of white rum.

A very simple drink which was introduced to us at the Courvoisier distillery in Jarnac was a measure of Cognac over ice in a tall glass, topped up with ginger beer and a twist of orange peel. Absolutely delicious, and perfect for summer evenings!

The other secret of Cognac!

As you cycle along the River Charente and through the fields of sunflowers and vines on our Cognac and the Charente tour you will see signs on driveways and farm entrances for Pineau. Pineau, which is short for Pineau des Charentes, is the aperitif of choice in this part of the world. According to legend, a winemaker accidentally put unfermented grape juice into a barrel he believed to be empty, but unbeknownst to him contained a significant amount of eau-de-vie. When the barrel was opened a couple of years later, the resulting liquid was found to be absolutely delicious and a few enterprising winegrowers set about recreating it.

These days, cognac is added to unfermented grape juice (the assemblage must be done on the same day as the harvest to qualify for the Pineau appelation) and then matured for up to 2 years, including 8 months in oak casks. The resulting drink is around 17% in alcoholic content. Depending on the grapes used (white grapes are the same as for cognac, for red and rosé the Bordeaux grapes of Cabernet and Merlot are used) the Pineau is a deep amber colour (white grapes) or mahogany brown or dark pink in the case of reds and rosé.

Pineau, served chilled to 8 degrees, is the perfect pre-dinner drink; we always include a pre dinner pineau on the first night of our Cognac tour to welcome everyone to a fabulous week in the saddle.

Santé!!!

Here Comes the Sun! March 2022 Update

Sat, 26 Mar 2022 00:00:00 +0000

With the birds chirping and small buds appearing on the trees around us, we can only hope the winter is coming to an end here in the French Alps, the base for many of our guides, and that we are soon back on our bikes! Not sure about anyone else, but we feel it has been a long winter already!

We are comforted and somewhat envious of the images coming from our hotel partners south of us who are starting to re-open for the upcoming season and we cannot wait to join them. For those who have joined us on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi Tour, you will have noticed some Spanish influences as we are close to the Spanish border. We often start and finish our season down south as this is where the sun gets to work first and the last warmth of the season continues.

This year, French Cycling holidays are starting the season with a bespoke custom cycle tour crossing that border into Spain! This is in the early part of May so follow us on our social media channels for the pictures! We are also finishing this year on a Balearic beat with a trip to Mallorca in October. For any keen road cyclists out there, contact Susan at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com for further details.

A Drop of the hard stuff...

Following Spain and then Provence (how can we miss Provence in May?!); we head west from the Mediterranean towards the Atlantic coast riding through Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne……no, not that Champagne! Think fewer bubbles, more alcohol…

Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne in fact have nothing to do with the sparkling drink but refer to the two most prestigious areas in the Cognac appellation of the Charente. Our Cognac and Atlantic Coast tour starting June 5th features leisurely flat riding and of course, a sip or two of the famous Cognac should you be so inclined. It also features some fabulous coastal rides and the historic cities of Rochefort and La Rochelle. Click here to read our latest Blog about the area. If you’d like to book on to the June 5 Cognac and Atlantic Coast with guides Katie and Roger, you can sign up here.

Have you decided where you want to Cycle for Summer 2022?

With borders back open to France, mask-wearing being phased out and hospital admissions low, we are looking forward to welcoming everyone from all over the world to join us again. Our schedule is listed on our website here so please take a look.

If you don't see what you are looking for. please send us an email at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com or call us in the office and we can see what we can do.

We have customers registered for the following dates already and are looking for more of you to join in!

June 5, 2022 - Cognac and the Atlantic Coast

June 19, 2022 - Dordogne

July 10, 2022 - Provence

August 7 2022 - Bordeaux

August 14, 2022 - Pyrenees

August 28, 2022 - Dordogne

September 4, 2022 - Loire

September11, 2022 Provence

September 18, 2022 - Med & Midi

Wonderful Saint-Emilion!

Tue, 14 Feb 2023 00:00:00 +0000

A highlight of our Bordeaux Wine tour is the delightful village of Saint-Emilion. Although part of the Bordeaux wine appellation, it’s winemakers are proud of the reputation that has made it one of the most famous labels in the world.

The wines of Saint Emilion

To be classified St-Emilion AOC, the grapes must come from quite a small geographical area – 5,400 hectares, or 13,000 acres, covering the town and 7 satellite communes. This area represents just 6% of the total Bordeaux wine region. Within this small area there are over 1000 producers, so most vignerons have relatively small vineyards. The compact area is also very handy for cycling, because from our base in the heart of the medieval village we can easily visit our favourite producers and take our time over tastings!

St-Emilion is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world, with a rich history dating back to Roman times. Its unique terroir, which includes limestone and clay soils, as well as a temperate climate, is well-suited for growing the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grape varieties that are commonly used in St-Emilion wines (there are no white or rosé St-Emilions!). The wines of St-Emilion are known for their complexity, elegance, and aging potential, the most prized vintages from the most sought-after producers can fetch stratospheric prices.

The wines have a higher proportion of merlot to cabernet than most wines of the Medoc, and this results in a rounder, less ‘robust’ wine.

St-Emilion wines are classified into four categories, which are referred to as "growths" or "crus" in French. These classifications are based on the quality and reputation of the vineyards and the wines they produce. The four classifications are:

Premier Grand Cru Classé A: This is the highest classification in St-Emilion, and is reserved for the very best vineyards, which are considered to produce the finest wines in the region.

Premier Grand Cru Classé B: This is the second-highest classification in St-Emilion, and is given to vineyards that are also considered to produce exceptional wines, but not quite at the level of the Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Grand Cru Classé: This classification is given to vineyards that produce high-quality wines, but are not considered to be at the level of the Premier Grand Cru Classé A or B.

St-Emilion: This is the basic classification, which includes all of the other vineyards in the St-Emilion appellation. These wines are generally considered to be of good quality, but not at the level of the higher classifications.

The classifications are reviewed every 10 years, and these reviews are treated very, very seriously as they can have a massive impact on the prices that the wines will fetch. At the moment, only 4 château have the highest classification – Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Pavie and Angelus. As an example, a bottle of Château Ausone 2010 will currently cost £950/$1,200.

Now, if the fabulous wines were not sufficient reason to visit, the village itself is a destination in its own right. St-Emilion was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 in recognition of its exceptional cultural and historical significance. The cobbled streets and pantiled roofs can be seen in wonderful panorama from the terrace by the steeple of the monolithic church. The steeple is only the visible part of the church - It is a unique example of a subterranean church carved entirely out of a single piece of limestone rock.

The church was built during the 12th century by a monk named Émilion, who became the patron saint of the town. The church was carved out of a natural limestone cave, and the structure is supported by a series of columns and arches that were also carved out of the rock. The church's interior features several chapels, an altar, and a bell tower, and it has a capacity of up to 200 people.

A guided visit to the church is always a highlight of our two night stay in the village. Another very popular high point is a hands-on blending workshop - blend and bottle your own vintage! Together with a Michelin starred dining experience, the St-Emilion part of our Bordeaux Cycling and Wine tour is one of the most memorable of all of our trips! We've got spaces on our Bordeaux Vineyards tour on 18th June and a couple left on 27th August. Don't miss it!

Rochefort - a hidden gem!

Thu, 16 Feb 2023 00:00:00 +0000

At the end of the Charente river, where in past times barges brought barrels of cognac down to the sea to continue their voyages to England, Holland and the New World, stands the city of Rochefort. A highlight of our Cognac tour, Rochefort is packed with enough history to take a week over! Unfortunately we only stay in Rochefort for two nights, but we can pack a lot of experiences into two days!

Corderie Royale

Starting nearest the hotel (a walk across the lawns in fact!) is the Corderie Royale. The Royal Rope Factory (Corderie Royale) is a must-visit for anyone interested in naval history. The rope factory was established in the 17th century and supplied the French navy with ropes and cables for over 300 years. At the time it was the longest building in the world, due to the space required to create the lengths of rope for rigging the fighting ships. Today, it's a fascinating museum and cultural center with exhibits on the history of rope-making, shipbuilding, and navigation.

National Naval Museum

The National Naval Museum (Musée National de la Marine): This museum is another highlight for naval history enthusiasts. It has an impressive collection of ship models, paintings, and artifacts that showcase the history of the French navy.

L'Hermione

The Hermione is a replica of the famous ship that carried the Marquis de Lafayette to America during the American Revolution. It was built using traditional shipbuilding techniques and is a magnificent sight to behold. There is a permanent exhibition detailing the 18th century construction techniques used to recreate the ship, and then you can go on board to get an idea of the conditions faced by seafarers of the era.

Pont Transbordeur

The Pont Transbordeur, also known as the Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge, is a unique bridge located in Rochefort, France. It was built in 1900 and spans the Charente River, connecting the towns of Rochefort and Echillais.

Unlike a traditional bridge, the Pont Transbordeur uses a suspended gondola to transport people and vehicles across the river. The gondola is suspended from a high gantry tower on one side of the river, and travels across the river on a cable. The gondola could carry up to 120 people and 8 cars at a time. This enabled tall ships to sail down the estuary without needing to open a swing bridge.

The Pont Transbordeur was in operation until 1967, when it was closed due to structural concerns. However, it was later restored and reopened to the public in 1994 as a historical monument. Today, visitors on foot or on bicycles can ride the gondola across the river and enjoy the views of the surrounding landscape from a unique perspective. We cycle into Rochefort on the bridge, and use it for the optional excursion the following day - it's a great way of keeping the biking to car-free routes!

Other highlights

Rochefort has all of the attractions of a substantial French provincial city - great shopping, a lively centre with shady squares with fountains and lined with cafés and bars.The Rochefort Arsenal: This historic complex was once a major center for naval construction and is now a cultural center that hosts concerts, exhibitions, and other events. Along the river you will find the Gardens of the Cordouan Lighthouse offering a peaceful oasis with stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

The city is worthy of a longer stay than we can manage, but we get the highlights in - maybe you'll be tempted to return! If you would like to experience the magic of Rochefort, we have spaces on our June 11th and Cognac and the Atlantic Coast tour- don't miss it!

France celebrates bike holidays!

Sun, 05 Mar 2023 00:00:00 +0000

2023 - A great season! - part 1

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

As the summer draws to a close, we wanted to take a moment to express our heartfelt gratitude for the amazing cycling season we've had in France. This summer has been particularly special as we welcomed back our Australian friends in numbers for the first time since the pandemic, and with the World Cup being staged in France this year, we had the opportunity to learn more about their beloved Rugby!!

This summer has been an incredible journey filled with adventure, camaraderie, and unforgettable memories.

The journey begins...

We started our cycling adventures in the south, where our guests embarked on a picturesque journey from the fishing port of Sête to the magical walled city of Carcassonne. The Mediterranean Sea provided a refreshing backdrop for picnics and swimming, while the tranquil paths along the canal offered a serene cycling experience. Seeing our guests enjoy these beautiful locations reminded us of why we love this job! We have cyclists already registered for our May 5, 2024 and September 29, 2024 departures. Book your tour here.

A private affair!

At the end of May, we had the pleasure of hosting a private group of Canadian guests for a bespoke 10-day tour covering the Dordogne and Bordeaux regions. Our aim has always been to create tailor-made experiences for our customers, and this exceptional tour was a testament to that. We want you to know that we can customize tours for anyone who wishes for a truly unique adventure. The earlier we know how your dream holiday would look, the more time we have to make it happen! Just ask!

Back to the sea...

Continuing our journey, we ventured to the Atlantic coast and embarked on a new route based on valuable customer feedback. We now (based on seasonal averages!) have the wind at our back for most of the tour The route includes cycling around the cycle friendly Ile de Ré and spending time in the wonderful port city of La Rochelle, before following the coast and then heading inland to Cognac with its famous brandy. June 9th, 2024 is another guaranteed departure date. Book early to avoid disappointment of missing out!

The journey continues in part 2!

2023 - A great season! - part 2

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

An old favourite!

In June, Ruth and Mike, the company owners, took charge of a very cosmopolitan group through the enchanting Loire Valley - an itinerary that is always makes for cherished memories for all who experiences it. Following the river past fairy tale castles, on (mostly!) flat roads where you rarely see a car. An astonishing meal in Amboise was followed by the unforgettable experience of dining under the walls of the magnificent Château de Chambord.

Our 2024 schedule has Loire Valley tour dates on 16th June and 7th July.

Welcome back old friends

Next on our list was a large group of Americans who rode through the Alsace region to honour the memory of their late father Jim, one of our first ever customers with French Cycling Holidays, and a charming and knowledgeable guest on many subsequent tours. It was an honour to be part of their celebration of his life and to have our dedicated guides, David and Susan, along with newcomers Martin and Chris, accompany them. Alsace is very different to other parts of France with its closeness to Germany, with some iconic dishes and some very special wines If you think you know France it’s a tour you should try! Our 2024 departure is on June 30th.

The mountains beckon!

As the temperature rose during the summer months, we sought refuge in the mountains. The legendary Alps beckoned as we explored the routes of the Tour de France. Our revamped Mythiques tour has us stay two nights on the l’Alpe allowing riders to conquer the iconic Alpe d'Huez, creating memories that will last a lifetime. We also couldn't resist the allure of climbing Mont Ventoux, a challenge embraced by our intrepid riders.

For those seeking a gentler alpine experience, we offered an unforgettable tour in the picturesque Lake Annecy region. Riders had the opportunity to choose from various route options, and for the extra adventurous, they could attempt the newest addition to the Tour de France climbs—the Col de La Loze. We were particularly proud to witness the determination of our Finnish father and son duo who conquered this formidable challenge. We were equally thrilled to welcome our youngest climbers from Australia, who amazed us with their skills and resilience. We are looking forward to seeing them back next year to perhaps take on the Pyrenees

For the conclusion to the season, click here!

2023 - A great season! - part 3

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Rugby, red wine and ratatouille!

After a well-deserved break in August (our guides need holidays too, and it can be challenging to find accommodations during the peak season!), we had the pleasure of hosting our hard-core Rugby fans from Australia. They embarked on thrilling journeys through the Bordeaux and Dordogne regions, perfectly timed to coincide with the World Cup of Rugby. This unique experience allowed our guests to immerse themselves in both the world of wine and the fascinating world of Rugby mascots! We enjoyed learning about these two passions that brought our guests together, creating special memories along the way.

On our ride through the vineyards of Bordeaux, we met vignerons (and vigneronnes, of course!) who explained with passion how they create their wines. We like to visit the smaller producers who can give us a real hands-on experience rather than the slick corporate experiences of the big producers. It is sobering (!) to hear about the trials and tribulations of making a living in an age beset by the problems caused by climate change.

In the Dordogne, the world famous caves of Lascaux and the magnificent medieval town of Sarlat were among the highlights - not to forget the amazing canoe trip down the Dordogne river gazing up at the medieval châteaux of the Hundred Years war glowering down from the cliffs on both sides of the river.

Toujours Provence!

To wrap up the season, we headed to the magnificent landscapes of Provence cycling on two different routes; Luberon Valley, with its dramatic perched villages and rock formations, and the gentler Roman Heritage route, showcasing iconic Roman sites like the World Heritage site of the Pont du Gard and prestigious wine areas such as Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe. With its stunning weather, warm nights perfect for outdoor dining, and breathtaking light that has inspired countless artists, Provence never fails to impress. During our time in Provence, we had the pleasure of discovering some exceptional new restaurants. A special thanks goes to Le Mas in Les Imberts for their warm welcome and exceptional cuisine. We highly recommend a visit to this culinary gem.

One of our proudest moments was renewing the long-standing relationships we've cultivated over the past 20 years. Our Provence Roman Heritage tour, which has become a true classic in our offerings, allows us to stay at trusted hotels and dine at favourite restaurants. We are grateful to Mas de Cure Bourse, La Galoubet, and 80 Jours for always extending a warm welcome to us and our guests. They treat our guests, who are maybe passing through just one time, as if they were regular customers to be looked after These special connections make our Provence tours even more memorable.

As we end this incredible season, we would like to express our utmost gratitude to each and every one of you for your continued support and enthusiasm. Your love for cycling, adventure, and the beautiful country of France fuels our passion to provide exceptional cycling experiences. We are genuinely honoured to have been a part of your cycling journey this summer and cannot wait to welcome you back for more adventures, discoveries, and unforgettable memories.

Stay tuned for news of our 2024 season!

Provence Roman Heritage Tour - The Pont du Gard by Canoe

Mon, 18 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Discovering the Pont du Gard by Canoe

Although our primary mode of transport on our cycling tours is, obviously, cycling (!) sometimes we like to break it up and swap pedals for paddles...

One of our favourite canoe trips is on our Provence Roman Heritage bike vacation, and provides a unique perspective on one of the world's most impressive feats of human engineering.

Nestled in the heart of the picturesque Provence region in southern France, the journey from Collias to the Pont du Gard by canoe is a serene and enchanting adventure. Collias, a charming village on the banks of the Gardon River, serves as the starting point for this delightful excursion, offering a gateway to the captivating landscapes and ancient marvels that lie downstream.

The Gardon River

As we embark on our canoeing expedition, the gentle current of the Gardon River carries we through a landscape rich in natural beauty. The river's crystalline waters meander through lush greenery, flanked by rugged cliffs and vibrant vegetation that create a tranquil atmosphere. The rhythmic sound of our paddle slicing through the water becomes a soothing melody, harmonising with the symphony of nature.

The journey unfolds at a leisurely pace, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the idyllic surroundings. The banks of the river showcase the quintessential Provençal countryside, with olive groves, vineyards, and fragrant lavender fields dotting the landscape. The warm sunlight bathes the scenery in a golden glow, casting a magical ambiance over the entire experience.

An architectural marvel: the Pont du Gard

As we navigate downstream, the silhouette of the Pont du Gard gradually comes into view, an awe-inspiring testament to ancient Roman engineering. This UNESCO World Heritage site, dating back to the 1st century AD, spans the Gardon River with its three-tiered arches, standing as a monumental reminder of the ingenuity of the Roman civilization.

Approaching the Pont du Gard by canoe is a unique vantage point, allowing us to appreciate the grandeur of this aqueduct from a perspective that few get to experience. The sheer magnitude of the structure, built with precision from locally quarried limestone, becomes even more impressive as we glide beneath its arches.

As we reach the shadow of the Pont du Gard, we may choose to disembark and explore the surroundings on foot. The site offers walking paths that lead to different viewpoints, allowing us to marvel at the intricate details of the aqueduct and the breathtaking panorama of the river valley.

Picnic Time!

While you are exploring, the guides unload the provisions to create one of our renowned picnics on the river beach.

Sitting on an upturned canoe to eat lunch while gazing on a wonder of the ancient world is a memory that you will never lose!

If this adventure sounds like something you would like to try, join one of our next Provence - Roman Heritage and Wine trips, we'd love to have you along on this easy to moderate cycling tour.
See the Provence tour map
Contact us to find out more

Restaurant Spotlight : Comte Roger, Carcassonne

Mon, 18 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Always a warm welcome at Comte Roger

A culinary highlight of our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tour is the final evening meal at the restaurant Comte Roger, tucked away in the cobbled heart of the medieval city of Carcassone. Head chef, Pierre Mesa, and his front of house team are always the most welcoming of hosts.

The restaurant is commended in the famous Guide Michelin and with delicious food and excellent service, we've been regular visitors to the Comte Roger for many years.

Let me take an opportunity to share our experience from 2023's tour:

Dining al fresco

The table for our group of 14 was laid out in the delightful open-air courtyard to take advantage of the late sunshine of our early summer visit; we had advised our guests to bring a cardigan, sweater or shawl in case the temperature should drop.

After settling in, aperitifs of kir or beer were ordered, at which point a selection of delicious nibbles appeared: gruyere cheese choux pastries, paté en croûte, and anchoiade toasts. Ten minutes of studying the menus followed, with explanations and descriptions of French cookery terms provided by yours truly.

Fresh from the Med

As a starter I ordered the carpaccio of octopus with mango, fennel and preserved lemon, while my neighbour, who was vegetarian, went for the velouté of root vegetables with a swirl of roquefort and chestnut emulsion. The octopus had obviously not long left the Mediterranean, it was so fresh, and beautifully complemented by the citrus marinade and crunchy fennel. If I had a complaint it would be that there was not enough of it, but I knew that my choice of main course meant that leaving a bit of room was a good idea. The soup, meanwhile, was described as "about the most delicious thing I've ever eaten" - the local fougasse bread that came with it also came in for praise.

We had ordered two wines for the table - a crisp Picpoul de Pinet from the coastal vineyards we had cycled through at the start of the week, and a robust Minervois red from the hills of Thursday's ride. The Picpoul was perfect with my octopus, and with the gravelax which other guests had chosen.

Carcassone's classic Cassoulet

For the main course, I chose the local speciality for which Comte Roger prepares a celebrated version - Cassoulet.

Cassoulet has 3 versions from neighbouring towns - Toulouse, Castelnaudary and Carcassonne - and each town fiercely proclaims the superiority of their take. All have the same base of haricot beans cooked in stock and tomato with herbs, but they differ in the meats which go into the pot. In Carcassonne, this means confit duck legs, garlic sausage and shoulder of mutton. It's peasant food elevated to gastronomy. Good job I kept some room!

My vegetarian neighbour chose the vegetable cocotte with a spelt risotto (spelt is an ancient grain - you can think of it like pearl barley when put into a risotto). Other dishes which caught the eye as they arrived at the table (why do you always think "I wish I'd gone for that" even when your own dish is fabulous?) were a supreme of guinea fowl and a fantastic looking dish of seared scallops on a wild Mediterranean rice risotto. The Minervois red was a perfect choice with the cassoulet.

Room for dessert

We had to ask our waiter if we could have a few minutes before choosing dessert, as those of us who had chosen the cassoulet were puffing a bit! For those of us who have trouble choosing, a wonderful innovation over the last few years at French restaurants has been the "café gourmand" - a coffee with a selection of mini versions of the items on the dessert menu. Of course this is what I went for! I was rewarded with miniature panna cotta, lemon mousse, chocolate financier and rum baba. The other desserts looked equally inviting, and the cheese board made sure that those with less of a sweet tooth were well catered for

All in all, an epic meal to end an epic trip. Wandering back to the hotel just outside the fortified walls we could look pack and see Carcassonne lit up in all its splendour. Perfect!

If our menu recommendations have whet your appetite, join our next trip to Carcassone and the surrounding areas on the our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tour. You can expect easy canalside cycleways, coastal scenery and Mediterranean markets awash with dazzlingly fresh seafood and crisp white wines, as well as robust reds to go with the classic cassoulet.
See itinerary
Contact us to find out more

French Cycling Holidays - A Culinary Odyssey Part 1

Wed, 31 Jan 2024 00:00:00 +0000

French Cycling Holidays – A Culinary Odyssey

Part one - The Mediterranean and Canal du Midi

One of the main reasons to visit France is the contribution the country has made to the world of fine food and drink (which goes hand-in-hand with the nation's passion for cycling!) We were going to write an article with a few of the highlights, but as soon as we started, we realised that there were far too many to be covered in one piece!

So, we are going to highlight the spectacular food and drink that each region has contributed and that you will sample with a hearty appetite on our fantastic cycling tours. We will start, as we start our biking season, in the South…

…in the fascinating port city of Sète, the launching point for our Mediterranean and the Canal du Midi tour. Sète sits with the Mediterranean on one side, and on the other the huge lagoon of the Etang de Thau (pronounced “Etong de Toe”).

Fishing boats, Sète

The Etang is one of France’s foremost producers of shellfish, and these feature heavily in the region’s specialities.

Let's take a look at a couple of Sètoise specialities:

Tielles de Sète

For lunch, don’t miss the town’s most famous delicacy, the Tielle Sètoise. Tielles are delicious pies, similar to Spanish empanadas, filled with octopus and other seafood, all in a spicy tomato sauce. The pastry is based on bread pastry, and the steam released on cooking gives the crust a lovely soft consistency. A Tielle, a side of salad, and a chilled rosé des sables to drink – lunch perfection!

A Tielle Sètoise

Bourride Sètoise

In the evening, stay with the seafood theme and try the stunning Bourride Sètoise. The Languedoc answer to Marseille’s Bouillabaisse, Bourride is principally a monkfish stew with a few other white fish varieties, like bass, hake and turbot also allowed. It is cooked in white wine, and lemon juice with tomatoes, leeks and potatoes and flavoured with thyme, bay and orange peel; crème fraiche is then added to give a velvety consistency. Finally it is served with aioli, the pungent garlic-laden mayonnaise of the region. To cut through the richness, the locals drink the local speciality white wine, Picpoul de Pinet, made in the plain behind the lagoon – wine experts regularly choose Picpoul as the number one choice for accompanying seafood.
Side note for the wine enthusiasts: Jamie Goode of Wine Anorak points out that, "It used to be that Muscadet was the go-to seafood wine. But following a tricky time for Muscadet, Picpoul de Pinet stepped in."

The dish Bourride Sètoise, from our visit to Sète, on the Mediterranean coast

Noilly Prat

Along the coast from Sète in the little fishing village of Marseillan, is a hidden gastronomic gem. On the harbourside, where the sea breezes can add their tang to the maturing barrels, we find the vermouth producers, Noilly Prat. The company was started in Marseillan in 1851, and the production process has remined the same to the present day. Noilly Prat is made exclusively from white grape varieties grown in the Marseillan area: Picpoul and Clairette.

These produce light, fruity wines which are matured in massive Canadian oak casks inside the original storerooms. The wine stays in these casks for eight months, maturing and absorbing the flavour of the wood, before being transferred to smaller oak barrels which are taken outside and left for a year. Here they are exposed to the sun, wind, and low winter temperatures, while the wine is slowly changing. The result is a wine that is dry, full-bodied and amber coloured, similar to Madeira or Sherry.

The wines are then blended together into oak casks. A small quantity of Mistelle (grape juice and alcohol) is added to the wines in order to soften them. In the oak casks, a process of maceration, supposedly unique to Noilly Prat, takes place over a period of three weeks. A blend of some twenty herbs and spices is added by hand every day. The exact mix of herbs and spices that goes into Noilly Prat is a closely guarded secret, but camomile, orange peel, nutmeg, yellow gentian, coriander and cloves. After a further six weeks, the finished product is ready for bottling.

Our visit to Noilly Prat (with extensive tasting!) is one of the highlights of our Mediterranean tour.

Wines of the Minervois

As we head way from the Mediterranean, into the foothills of the Montagnes Noires (Black Mountains) we will continue our cycle tour through the oldest wine-producing region of France, the Minervois.

Cycling to Minerve is a tour highlight

Stretching from the medieval stronghold of Minerve (another tour highlight) down to the Canal du Midi, Minervois reds have enjoyed a huge improvement in reputation since the days when rotgut Vin de Table was the staple produce!

An influx of modern winemakers from other parts of France and the New World have been producing world-beating velvety red wines for the last couple of decades, which can be bought for eye-openingly low prices.

Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache are the predominant grape varieties, with additional varieties like Cinsault, Carignan, Picpoul Noir and Terret also making their way into the blend. These varieties are also the make-up for the legendary Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, but Minervois reds can be had for a fraction of the price. What better to accompany your Cassoulet de Carcassonne…? Speaking of which...

Cassoulet de Carcassonne

Carcassonne is the final stop on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tour, and is home to the celebrated dish, Cassoulet. Carcassonne, known for its medieval fortress and rich history, has its own unique take on this famous dish, which reflects the local culinary traditions and ingredients of the area.

The history of Cassoulet de Carcassonne is intertwined with the broader history of cassoulet itself, with each region in the Languedoc adding its own twist to the recipe over the centuries.

In the case of Cassoulet de Carcassonne, the dish typically features white beans (often haricot beans), various meats such as pork shoulder, Toulouse sausage (a type of pork sausage seasoned with garlic and spices), and duck confit. Duck confit, a method of preserving duck meat by slow-cooking it in its own fat, is a signature ingredient in the Carcassonne version of Cassoulet.

The famous walled city of Carcassonne in Cathar country, France. [Credit: Alain Bonnardeaux]

What sets Cassoulet de Carcassonne apart from other variations is its use of local ingredients and flavours. Carcassonne is situated in the heart of the Cathar country, and its cuisine weaves together influences from both French and Catalan traditions.

The dish is typically slow-cooked for several hours, allowing the flavours to meld together and the meats to become tender and succulent. The result is a rich and hearty one-pot meal that is perfect for warming up on a cold day and is often enjoyed with a crusty baguette and a glass of robust red wine (Minervois, for example).

We get stuck into a wholesome Cassoulet on the final evening of the French Cycling Holidays Mediterranean tour; one thing you won't be at the end of the trip is hungry!

The Carcassone version of Cassoulet includes confit duck

Has our culinary tour of the Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tickled your tastebuds?

See our Mediterranean cycle tour details

This guided trip with French Cycling Holidays includes:

Visit to Marseillan with a tasting at Noilly Prat
Two nights in the ancient town of Beziers
Fantastic sea views around the Etang de Thau
Easy cycling tour along the tree shaded Canal du Midi
The astonishing medieval fortress of Carcassonne

How fit do I need to be for the Mediterranean/Canal du Midi cycle tour?

Anybody who is reasonably active should be able to take part and enjoy our cycling tours in France. Anyone who is in good physical condition will be happy on this Mediterranean cycling tour which features flat terrain with a few rolling sections. Cyclists should be comfortable with riding 3-5 hours a day on a bike. You can bring your own bike, or we can provide a touring bike or e-bike for you.

How do I travel to the start of the cycling holiday?

The tour begins in Sète, and the nearest airports are either Nimes, Beziers or Montpellier. We can collect you from the nearest railway station.

More questions? Contact us in the office to find out more about this cycle tour, we're more than happy to chat through it with you.

French Cycling Holidays - A Culinary Odyssey Part 2

Thu, 28 Nov 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Part two - Provence

It's no secret that Provence's delicious landscapes, ethereal light, rich history and vibrant culture have lured generations of artists to capture its unique essence. Cezanne, Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso... All the greats were enchanted by the magical qualities of this historic region of France.

But, I hear you cry, what did they eat whilst they were working on those wonderful masterpieces?

Artists (and cyclists) require fuel. And not just any old baguette and cheese! To truly feel part of the landscape, to become one with Provence, you have to eat and drink what its hallowed terroir has to offer.

Provence's olives

No trip to Provence would be complete without an olive. Just cycling past the gnarled trunks and dusky leaves of these iconic trees dotting the Provençal landscape makes your mind start to wander towards aperitif-o'clock. Harvested in late summer to early autumn, the small, green Provençal picholine olives are soaked in brine to remove the bitterness, after which they can be marinated in herbes de Provence, garlic etc. to complement the naturally fresh and lemony taste.

Most commonly nibbled alongside a glass or two of Pastis, olives are of course also made into oil. Since 2020, the French government has recognised the quality of Provençal olive oil with an Appellation d'origine protégée (AOP), with 250,000 litres produced per year via the 80 registered producers. During our Provence cycle tour you can keep an eye out for this AOP olive oil in the local shops, it makes a good souvenir!

Tapenade, the dip/paste in which olives are crushed and mixed with anchovies, capers, vinegar and olive oil also features heavily in local shops (and at aperitif time!).

Provençal markets: always a challenging destination for the indecisive olive fan...

Ratatouille

This veggie dish is a classic for a reason. Jam-packed with Provencal sunshine, ripe tomatoes, courgettes, aubergine and bell peppers are cooked slowly in olive oil and local herbs, in a testament to simplicity of preparation and quality of ingredients. With a crusty baguette on the side, you can see why health experts want us all to be eating a Mediterranean diet.

Calissons d'Aix

This traditional Provençal sweet is made from almonds, candied melon, and orange peel which is covered in a thin layer of royal icing.

Joyeux Noël from French Cycling Holidays

Thu, 12 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Some festive traditions from our favourite French regions:

It's 24 December and you've just finished work (that's right, it's not a public holiday in France), but you can't sit down yet, because there's a Christmas feast to prepare!

A Reveillon Feast

In France, family and friends gather on Christmas Eve to tuck into an indulgent feast: the Reveillon de Noël.

Local dishes are definitely favoured on this special day. In the western Dordogne area, the starter will be more likely to include foie gras, usually served with buttery brioche toasts and perhaps some fig jam, alongside a glass of sweet wine from Chateau Monbazillac in Bordeaux, possibly even splashing out on the crème-de-la-crème, Chateau Yquem, the only Premier Cru Supérieur in the Sauternes AOC. If any cyclists from our Bordeaux Vineyards tour picked up a bottle of Monbazillac at the tasting, Christmas is a good time to retrieve it from the wine cellar!

In coastal regions will likely devour oysters by the douzaine (dozen), usually with finely chopped shallots and red wine vinegar or a wedge of lemon. (If you like oysters, our Mediterranean Coast tour is the one for you) with a glass or two of Champagne.

Oysters and Champagne, a grand classic for Christmas Eve

Diners in Alsace, Provence or Burgundy will then tuck into a stuffed, roast turkey or capon, with potatoes. Other regions may cook a whole fish, venison or channel their inner Obelix with a roast wild boar... Our guide to festive wines explains more about which Christmas wines you might drink with your roast turkey.

For dessert, a magnificent Bûche de Noël will arrive at the table. This is a swiss roll cake, decadently iced with buttercream to look like a log of wood, and has been a tradition in France since the 19th century. Pâtisseries really go to town with their bûche selections: you’ll find chocolate versions, coffee, chestnut, lemon, passionfruit, praline, white chocolate and raspberry, salted caramel. And that’s not mentioning the ice-cream versions: bûche glacée.

Gingerbread buche de Noel

Meanwhile in Provence, you definitely need to leave room for more than just the yule log, as a local tradition involves serving 13 desserts! These symbolise Jesus and his 12 apostles. Thankfully for the chef, it is acceptable to count different dried fruits and nuts as one dessert, so almonds, pear, apple, dates, prunes, raisins, melon, figs or hazelnuts would be served alongside nougat and a special cake made with olive oil, orange zest and orange flower water, a pompe à l’huile. If you fancy having a go at this dish, there's a recipe on The Good Life France website.

After dinner espresso is of course accompanied by chocolate. Originally from Lyon, papillottes are now found throughout France at Christmas time. These are chocolates, pralines or sometimes pâte à fruits, wrapped in shiny paper and also containing a fact or an inspirational quote – a little like anglophone countries have inside their crackers.

After the meal, people might go to Midnight Mass, but usually every family will then begin opening the presents laid out beneath the Christmas tree or sapin.

Mon Beau Sapin

Since the 16th Century, French homes have installed a sapin de Noël in December, and the origin – as with many festive traditions which come from Germanic regions – has been traced to the Alsace.

Maria Leszczyńska (the Polish wife of King Louis XV) had a Christmas tree in Versailles, but it was not until the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1) that immigrants fled to France, bringing with them the pine tree tradition.

The song ‘O Tannenbaum’ in German has been translated into English as ‘O Christmas Tree’, and also into French, Mon Beau Sapin.

Petit Papa Noël

Before Père Noël (Father Christmas/Santa Claus), it was Père Chalande who roamed the Savoie region, and even as far as Geneva, visiting children at home and wearing a pointy hat. In arpatan, the local dialect of the Rhone Alpes language, 'chalande' was the word for Christmas, when people tucked into oranges and r’zules (rissoles, in modern French) which are small pastries with pear or quince compote and fried.

Rascally kids had better watch out for Père Fouettard, who dressed in black and accompanied his more benevolent partner, Saint Nicholas, to whip(!) any youngsters who had been naughty… That said, Saint Nicholas was more likely to visit on 6 December.

These days, children are most likely to be waiting for Père Noël, hoping their soulier (slippers or shoes), laid by the tree or the fireplace, will be filled with treats.

Mention Christmas music to a French person, and aside from Mon Beau Sapin, they'll probably start singing Petit Papa Noël, Tino Rossi's big hit in 1946 and has been covered numerous times since.

If you want to sing along, here are the words to the chorus:

Petit Papa Noël
Quand tu descendras du ciel
Avec des jouets par milliers
N'oublie pas mon petit soulier

And in English:

Little Father Christmas
When you come down from the sky
With toys by the thousand
Don't forget my little shoe

One of France's best known Christmas songs, Petit Papa Noel

Christmas Markets

The Marché de Noël Christmas Market trip is as popular with French shoppers as it is with the rest of us! Two million visitors descend upon Strasbourg at Christmas time, to visit the enchanting Alsatian city and the bustling market stalls around its impressive cathedral.

Held since the middle ages, the Strasbourg Christmas market is the oldest in France, and these days gathers up to 300 stalls near the Cathedral and in squares around the Grand Ile area of the city. The scent of cinnamon and vin chaud winds through the streets among the distinctive pitched roof buildings with their stepped gables and half-timbered facades.

How to say 'Merry Christmas' in French

Here in France, the most usual way to wish someone a happy Christmas is 'Joyeux Noël'. If you won't see someone until after the festivities, you could also say 'Joyeuses Fêtes' - 'enjoy the party'!

From the first of January, you can wish someone a happy new year by saying 'meilleurs vœux', literally, 'best wishes'.

And with that, Joyeux Noël from French Cycling Holidays!